The amaryllis, grown for its large blossoms, is a product of South Africa and the Netherlands. Each country produces different cultivars with the blooms being red, pink, salmon, white, orange, or lemon as our example on this page shows. Bicolor cultivars are also available consisting of white and red or white and pink combinations. The South African cultivars are typically forced earlier than the Dutch-grown bulbs providing a longer market for nurseries and garden centers and more weeks of enjoyment for the consumer.

The bulbs should be planted as soon as they are received. Dip the bulb in a general purpose fungicide prior to planting to help control disease problems. If you need to store the bulbs for any length of time, be sure to keep them at a temperature of 55 to 60 degrees Fahrenheit (13 to 16 degrees C).

The amaryllis does best when planted in a well-drained sterilized planting mix having a pH of 6.0 to 6.5. Plant the bulb with the nose above the rim of the pot; at least one-third of the bulb should be out of the soil. Normally only one bulb is planted per 5 or 6 inch standard pot.

After planting, water thoroughly with tepid water. From then on, keep the soil only slightly moist. Fertilizing once a month during blossom time is helpful but not recommended during the flower stalk development phase.

The Amaryllis is a tropical plant and is best forced at a temperature between 63 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit (17 to 24 degrees C). The higher the temperature the faster the flower stalk with develop. If planning on having these plants in bloom at a specific time, keep in mind that the average forcing time until bloom is 3 to 5 weeks depending on the cultivar and forcing conditions.

During this forcing period the plant should be placed in a site having low to medium light (1000 to 5000 foot candle) intensity. Do not expose these developing plants to full sun.

The number of flower stalks each bulb produces is dependent on the size of the bulb with the larger bulbs producing the greater number of stalks. The number of flowers per flower stalk, however, is primarily a function of cultivar with most producing 4 flowers per stalk. Some cultivars produce only two flowers per stalk while others produce up to six.

Leaf growth becomes vigorous shortly after blossoms fade and die. If you plan on keeping the plant for another year, do not cut the foliage off the plant. If damage occurs to the strap-like leaves the bulb's food reserves will not be replenished for next year's bloom. The bulb can be left in the same pot for several years watering and fertilizing as you would any other houseplant. When all danger of frost ⁽¹⁾ is over in the spring, set the pot outside at ground level in a sunny spot. Continue to water and fertilize. In August the plant may bloom again.

Before the first fall frost, take the pot and plant back into the house and place it in a cool spot with subdued light. Gradually withhold water until the soil in the pot is absolutely dry. This cures the bulb and provides the 60-day rest period needed before renewed growth starts. As the leaves yellow and die, remove them by pulling them loose from the bulb.

Top growth will begin when the rest period is complete and the process can be started over again.

Additional information on the Amaryllis is available from North Carolina State University

To the Houseplant home page