Thank you for calling Dial-a-Garden. This message was recorded on Tuesday, April 6, 2008.

Cool season lawns will need nitrogen this spring, especially in areas that did not receive the late season application of nitrogen last fall. If the lawn is in fairly good shape, a light application of 1/2 pound of actual nitrogen per thousand square feet, about every six weeks will help it healthy. If your lawn is thin, or if you missed the late season application, you may need to give it a full pound of nitrogen. The three numbers on the package of fertilizer are the percentages of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium contained in the product. For example ammonium sulfate is labeled 21-0-0 and contains 21 percent or approximately one-fifth actual nitrogen. Apply 5 pounds of this product per thousand square feet to put on one pound of nitrogen in these areas. Unless a soil test indicates otherwise, nitrogen is the only nutrient needed in our soils. Cool season lawns need a total of three to four pounds annually. If you leave your lawn clippings to break down on the lawn, you can reduce the amount of nitrogen you need to apply each year. Further information on lawn fertilizing may be found at www.westernslopeturf.org or by calling the Mesa County Extension office at 244-1836.

To avoid stressing the lawn, mow it to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches, and do this often enough so that you don't remove more than one third of the blade at a time. This may require frequent mowings at this time of year; avoid using too much nitrogen fertilizer as this will make the grass grow faster. One half pound (or 2 1/2 pounds of 21 percent nitrogen) every six weeks or so should be sufficient.

To avoid harming your trees with the lawn mower or string trimmer, and to keep excess moisture away from the crown of the tree, spray kill the grass at least a foot out from the trunk. If the tree is young, has thin bark, or is inclined toward suckering, protect it from the herbicide by wrapping the trunk in light colored plastic before spraying. Leave it in place for a day or two to make sure the chemical has thoroughly dried. On older, coarse-bark trees with no sucker growth, a grass killer will not cause harm. Don't pull the grass out, as this can tear tree roots. Once the turf is dry, mulch over the area with a coarse organic material such as bark mulch, but avoid mulching right against the trunk. Mulch against the trunk encourages rot at the sensitive crown area.

Many thanks to all who participated in the Seedling Tree program, thousands of small trees were provided at low cost to area residents. If you purchased trees this year, you are already on our mailing list for this fall, when we will begin ordering for next year. If you didn't purchase trees but you would like to be included on the list, call your local Extension office. You must have at least two acres and some restrictions apply.

There is still space in three of our upcoming Native Plant Master courses: June 6, 13 & 20 on the North Rim of the Black Canyon of the Gunnison, and July 11, 18 and 25 or July 12, 19 and 26 on Grand Mesa. These three sessions field classes cover identifying 40 to 50 plants, learning their botanical names, using a key for identification, and learning something about their ecology and human uses. Noxious weeds will also be covered. The cost is $100 for each three-session course with a $50 reduction for those who commit to educating at least 20 other people per course and reporting your contacts back to Colorado State University. The application and additional information is available on our website at westernslopegardening.org.

Thank you for calling Dial-a-Garden. This message will be updated next week; have a great week!

to the Dial-a-Garden Message Home page
to the Tri River Area Gardening and Horticulture Home Page

Curt Swift CSU Extension Tri River Area Horticultural Agent