Dial-a-Garden Message
for the Week of Monday, August 17, 2009
Susan Rose, Horticulture Education Specialist
Colorado State University Extension Tri River Area
Thank you for calling Dial-a-Garden. This message was recorded on Monday, August 17, 2009.
The evapotranspiration rate for the last week is 1.6 inches, which represents the combined water loss from transpiration and evaporation. Water the lawn two to three times this week, to replace this loss.
While it is important to water deeply when we do water, in order to get moisture down throughout the root system, lawns will also benefit in hot weather from a brief watering during the day to cool them off and reduce stress. Three to five minutes is sufficient for this. Another great stress reducer for the lawn is to mow at the highest setting, and often enough to remove only the upper third of the blade.
If you are having problems with dead spots in the lawn, check for the presence of white grubs. Although fungus diseases are the more common cause, the white grubs can do considerable damage to a lawn. If a section of grass lifts up like a carpet, lift or cut a piece up and look underneath for the grubs. The more mature the grubs are, the more difficult they are to control, so if you find them treat them as soon as possible with a grub control product such as imidacloprid. See our fact sheet number 5.516 at http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05516.html for information on the life cycle and management of this insect. If you aren’t on line, stop by or give us a call at 244-1836.
Annual weeds are difficult to control when they are mature. They do not respond as readily to herbicides. Manual controls may be necessary; mowing may help, but many weeds will still set seed. When digging or hoeing, it is not necessary to get the entire root out. A couple of inches below the surface is sufficient to stop regrowth. Annual weeds may be composted if they have not already set seed.
If your soil is compacted, improve it by having the lawn aerated in late summer or fall. Core aeration, which pulls small plugs of thatch and soil, allows improved oxygen and water penetration, encouraging root growth. Healthier roots this season will mean a healthier turf next year. The cores may be left in place to break down, or if this is bothersome, they may be raked up and composted.
Prepare the compost pile for the coming fall by finishing the current pile. To finish a pile, don’t add any more material. Turn it frequently and keep it evenly moist. Remove or shred any large pieces of plant material. Check the center of the pile to see if it is warm; the addition of a little nitrogen fertilizer will get it going again if it has stalled. It should be ready to use within a few weeks. Remove the finished compost to a holding area, to make ready for composting those fall leaves.
If you are continuing to treat your apples or pears for codling moth, please consult the label of the insecticide you are using for the pre-harvest interval. This is the number of days required between the last application of a pesticide and harvesting the crop, and it will vary with the crop and the product. You will have to estimate the harvest date, and count back from there. Determining harvest date can be challenging; our fact sheet on Harvesting Apples and Pears at http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/TRA/PLANTS/harvestofapplespears.shtml has some helpful advice. If you don’t have enough time between the last application and harvest, consider switching to a product with a shorter pre-harvest interval for the last application. Sevin or malathion are possible choices.
Be sure to visit the Mesa County Arboretum when you have a chance; there is no charge and we’re open twenty-four-seven. The summer bloomers are putting on a great show!
Stop by or call with your yard or garden questions. We’re located in Mesa County on the fairgrounds, 2775 Highway 50, and our number is 244-1836. Thank you for calling Dial-a-Garden. This message will be updated next week; have a great week!
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