Archives - 2007

October 8 - 15

Autumn Purple Ash
(Fraxinus americana)

Appearance: Ahhhhhh... have your eyes drunk in the loveliness of this fall wonder? One reason for planting this beauty is its awesome display of yellow to reddish-purple fall color that can be so intense it takes your breath away. Growing as much as 50 feet tall and wide, this tree has a clean character with healthy twigs and buds that are large and fat. The leaves are dark green with a pale underside which drop almost all at once after their fall display, which is nice for one raking.

Cultivation: While the Ash prefers fertile, well drained soil it will tolerate drought, poor soil and partial shade. It is also critical to remember your trees in the winter by watering them monthly, especially if they are young and still getting established. To learn more about proper tree planting techniques and tree care, call the Colorado Master Gardener Help Desk at the number below.

Landscape use: Color, Color, Color! Bonus: shade. Double Bonus: attractive to birds. The Autumn Purple Ash should be planted in a spot where there is plenty of space available. Don’t plant under overhead power lines or too close to buildings. To read more about why leaves change color in the fall, go to:
www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1728.html.

Contributed by Kerry Peetz, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/11/07.)

October 1 - 8

Maiden Hair Grass
(Miscanthus sinensis ‘Variegatus’)

Appearance: As summer’s flowers begin to fade, the beautiful ornamental grasses in the area put on their finery. A creatively placed specimen will add not only texture and light, but movement and beauty to the garden. Variegated Miscanthus shines in the garden with its white leaf edges, standing 3 – 4 feet tall and wide. Tall stalks emerge from the center in mid-summer, forming long-lasting seed spikes.

Cultivation: Miscanthus prefers full sun and moist, well drained soil of average fertility. Give this grass room to grow to fully appreciate its value and form. If you wait until new growth appears in the spring to trim ornamental grasses, you can enjoy their winter interest. The unkempt and natural looking leaf blades catch snow, providing moisture for the plant. The seed heads offer food for birds.

Landscape use: Consider planting Miscanthus as a backdrop to Himalayan Border Jewel or Spreading Cotoneaster, or in front of evergreens. A treasure of ornamental grasses can be viewed at the Colorado Springs Utilities Xeriscape Demonstration Garden, both during the growing season as well as in winter when the grasses show a different character as they rise from a blanket of snow.

To read more about ornamental grasses, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07232.html

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/4/07.)

September 24 - October 1

Flowering Cabbage
(Brassica oleracea)

Appearance: Cold-resistant flowering cabbage takes the stage after tender annuals have succumbed to fall’s first frosts. Flowering cabbage isn’t really a flower, but a loose head of large ruffled, fringed, or smooth leaves in vibrant combinations of cream rose, purple, and green. Although grown as an ornamental, flowering cabbage, also known as ornamental or flowering kale, is completely edible.

Cultivation: Technically a biennial, these cabbages are grown for the open rosette that forms the first season. Summer heat results in stunted or leggy plants that are often attached by cabbage loopers; plants are at their best in cool fall weather. Frosty nights intensify the colors. In late August or September, set seedlings out 15 – 18 inches apart in full sun. All cabbages prefer rich, moist soil.

Landscape use: Ornamental cabbages are most typically massed as bedding plants. Plants continue to look attractive for a while after the ground freezes. Use for fall/winter color, contrasted with dormant perennial grasses in shades of tan and gold, or harmonizing with groundcovers, such as some junipers, that turn purple in winter.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/27/07.)

September 17 - 24

Silver Lace Vine
(Fallopia baldschuanica)

Appearance: The Silver Lace Vine is characterized by light green foliage with masses of small, fragrant, white flowers that cover the plant from late summer into fall. When flowers drop, it may be messy, so consider the location when planting.

Cultivation: Silver Lace Vine is hardy in Zones 4-7, can grow to 9,000’ and tolerates full sun to part shade and a wide range of soils. It is extremely xeric but will also tolerate more water. It requires a sturdy support as woody branches become heavy. The vine may also be used as a groundcover to hide structures or stabilize banks. It has no serious disease or insect problems. Plant in well-drained soil, 3-6 inches away from support, and mulch 3 inches deep to keep roots cool in the summer.

Landscape use: Silver Lace Vine is a fast-growing, deciduous perennial vine growing 10’ to 20’ tall. It is useful to quickly hide unsightly structures and may be the plant to use where others won’t grow!

Contributed by Karen Dayberry, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/20/07.)

September 10 - 17

Chocolate Flower
(Berlandiera lyrata)

Appearance: A 2004 Plant Select choice, Chocolate Flower is an ever-blooming Southwestern native wildflower with a compact rosette of green foliage and dark-eyed yellow daises. The flowers exude a rich chocolate aroma in the morning. Attractive even after blooming, it has green “flowers” (bracts) that give interest to your garden. It grows to approximately 10-20” high by 10-20” wide.

Cultivation: Chocolate Flower prefers well-drained soil, full sun to partial shade and can be seeded directly outdoors in May. Once established, it prefers dry conditions and is considered drought tolerant. This tough plant is hardy up to 7,000 feet. Once the seed head forms, shear lightly to encourage more blooms.

Landscape use: Chocolate Flower attracts butterflies and may be deer resistant. It is a tough plant, and can tolerate wind, heat and harsh reflected sunlight. If Chocolate Flower is planted in a cooler area, use rock mulch to provide some extra heat for it. Be aware that this plant may reseed. Plant near a pathway so you can enjoy the wonderful, guilt-free chocolate scent. To read more about Plant Select and see the 2008 selections, go to: www.plantselect.org.

Contributed by Jan Roes, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/13/07.)

Sep 3 - Sep 10

Rugosa Rose
(Rosa rugosa)

Appearance: Think roses are too much trouble to grow and you don’t have the time to take care of them? Well, think again. Rugosa roses are the answer. These low maintenance beauties are a member of the shrub rose family, and grow 4 to 6 feet high and wide. Foliage is a glossy dark green with distinctive heavy veining which gives them a crinkled look. They are available in a full range of colors from rose-pinks to pinks, yellow, white and reds. They bloom periodically throughout the summer on prickly stems.

Cultivation: Rugosas are hardy in zones 2 to 8 and tolerant of Colorado’s fluctuating temperatures. Plant in full sun 4 feet apart. Rugosa are insect free and resist rose rust and black spot diseases. They don’t require as much water as hybrid tea roses, but don’t let them dry out.

Landscape use: Rugosa can be planted as a hedge or singly as a specimen plant. They are a good addition in the middle or back of a border and can thrive in a rock garden. In the fall they produce colorful rose hips that look spectacular against the dark green foliage. Rose hips are edible and are a good source of vitamin C. They can be eaten fresh from the plant or brewed into tea. For more information about growing roses, go to www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07416.html.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/6/07.)

August 27 - Sep 3

Missouri Evening Primrose
(Oenothera macrocarpa formerly O. missouriensis)

Appearance: The Missouri Evening Primrose, also known as Ozark Sundrops, is a hardy and versatile perennial native to the south-central US. The dark green leaves provide beautiful contrast to the lemon yellow flowers that appear from early summer into fall. The foliage is prostrate and spreading, from 6” – 10” tall with a spread of 18” - 24”. The flowers are up to 4” wide and open from a reddish bud toward the end of the day and last throughout the next day. It produces a winged capsule 2” – 3” long that is useful in dried arrangements.

Cultivation: This plant thrives to USDA zone 4 and can be grown to 8,000 feet in Colorado. It tolerates full sun or partial shade and prefers sandy, well-drained soil. Water requirements are very low. Consistent deadheading of spent blooms will insure continuous blooming through the hottest days of summer.

Landscape use: It is used in rock gardens, dry prairie hillsides, as a ground cover or in a naturalized landscape for reliable color and low maintenance. It is also deer resistant. Try planting it among Annual Desert Bluebell, Heart-leafed Bergenia and Russian sage.

Contributed by Karen Dayberry, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/30/07.)

August 20 - 27

Sneezeweed
(Helenium hyb.)

Appearance: Why would you grow a flower called Sneezeweed? Picture a striking, three-foot high perennial covered with 2 – 3 inch daisy-like flowers of yellow, orange, red, rust, and copper. The leaves are six inches long, lance-shaped and dark green. Actually, the name comes from the use of the dried leaves and flowers as snuff; the pollen is unlikely to cause hayfever. Handling the plant can cause an allergic reaction, so it’s wise to use gloves. Also, the plants are bitter and toxic, so keep them away from small children and pets.

Cultivation: Native to the Midwest, Sneezeweed needs supplemental irrigation in our drier climate. Give it good drainage and don’t let it dry out. It’s not picky about soils; high fertility results in lanky plants that need staking. Grow this completely hardy plant in full sun. Plants started from seed in early spring will bloom their first summer. Pinch back in late spring to increase branching and create a more compact plant, then cut back by half after bloom. Overgrown clumps may be divided every few years in spring.

Landscape use: Sneezeweed’s informal appearance is especially suitable for cottage gardens and naturalized areas. Butterflies and bees are attracted to flowers, while songbirds eat the seeds. Try combining it with ornamental grasses and other warm-hued flowers that share a late-summer bloom time. Or, contrast its sunny colors with a foreground of cool lavender catmint or hardy sage, which also serve to hide the scraggly base of the plant.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/23/07.)

August 13 - 20

Gayfeather
(Liatris spicata)

Appearance: This feathery spike of Liatris will rise out of your garden on erect narrow stems from a tuft of narrow grasslike leaves. The bright pink – lavender flowers attract butterflies and bees and can be used in fresh or dried bouquets. Liatris is hardy to 8,000 feet and can be deer resistant.

Cultivation: Liatris can tolerate drier conditions in the garden but moderate watering will improve its appearance. Rich, moist soil may cause it to become rangier, especially with the cultivar Liatris punctata. Plants that sit in wet soil over the winter may not survive. Growing to a height of 18-24 inches and 12 inches wide, Liatris will spread over the years, and can be divided in the spring. Although it may self-sow, Liatris can be planted from seed, transplants or from a bulb which is sold as Liatris callilepis by Dutch bulb growers.

Landscape use: Liatris is attractive when planted alongside plants with blue-toned foliage such as Blue Grama Grass or any of the golden grasses that are available. A drift of Liatris across the garden bed will delight the gardener as butterflies dance from stalk to stalk. For more information about attracting butterflies to the garden, go to www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/insect/05504.pdf.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/16/07.)

August 6 - 13

Cupid's Dart
(Catananche caerulea)

Appearance: Cupid’s Dart comes to Colorado from Europe, where its historical role as an ingredient in love potions gave rise to its common name. Clumps of slender grey-green leaves grow about a foot tall and wide. Wiry stalks extend past the foliage, supporting a myriad of striking periwinkle-blue flower heads, each set off by papery bracts behind the petals. If left to mature, the two inch blooms turn into attractive seed heads that last all winter.

Cultivation: Thriving on benign neglect, Cupid’s Dart requires full sun and excellent drainage. Provide supplemental water during prolonged dry spells. Although this is a short-lived perennial lasting about three years, it is easy to propagate. Plants may be divided in early spring, or started from seed. Seedlings started indoors in March will bloom their first summer. Place seeds in the freezer for several weeks prior to sowing. Removing faded flowers will prolong bloom.

Landscape use: Its xeric qualities make Cupid’s Dart an ideal plant for low-water gardens. The lavender-blue flowers combine especially well with orange-yellow butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberose) or torch-lily (Kniphofia). Use it as a temporary filler among slower-growing shrubs, where its short lifespan is an asset. The flowers can be used in dried arrangements.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/9/07.)

July 30 - August 6

Fernbush
(Chamaebatiaria millefolium)

Appearance: From a distance, a blooming Fernbush resembles a white lilac bush. Growing 4 – 6 feet high and wide, it is covered in mid-to-late summer with upright panicles of showy white flowers. A closer inspection reveals reddish peeling bark and the aromatic, finely dissected leaves that give Fernbush its common name. Even in our cold climate, these leaves stay on the bush for most of the year. Fall foliage is an attractive copper color. Branches are bare for a mere three to four months each winter.

Cultivation: Native to arid parts of the western United States, Fernbush is well adapted to no-fuss gardening. Hardy to 7,000 feet in Colorado, plants will grow in any well-drained soil. Situate in full sun. Established plants require supplemental watering only during prolonged dry spells.

Landscape use: Fernbush is an ideal plant for backgrounds, informal hedges, and screening. It provides welcome flowers at a time when most shrubs have finished blooming. Consider growing it alongside other natives with similar cultural needs, such as purple-blooming Leadplant (Amorpha canescens) and bright yellow Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus nauseosus). For more photos and information, go to: www.coopext.colostate.edu/4dmg/Trees/Shrubs/fernbush.htm.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/2/07.)

July 23 - July 30

Summer Squash
(Cucurbita pepo)

Appearance: Zucchini and its relatives have large lobed leaves, blotched with white, supported by thick prickly stems. Big yellow flowers produce squash in an amazing variety of colors and shapes. Plants grow four feet wide and two feet high.

Cultivation: Summer squash are heavy feeders requiring fertile soil. Once all danger of frost is past, choose a spot in full sun and dig in three inches of compost. Plant three or four seeds together in a clump (often called a “hill”). You can also buy started seedlings, but take care when transplanting as the roots are delicate. Apply sufficient water to keep soil damp. A layer of mulch helps prevent drying.

Plants take about two months to start producing squash. The male flowers (which will not produce squash) appear first, so pick some and stuff them for dinner. Female flowers appear about a week later. Look for a baby squash at the flower base, ready to grow once pollination occurs. Picking squash while small and tender keeps plants producing until they are killed by frost.

Landscape use: While traditionally grown in a vegetable garden, summer squash’s striking appearance can provide a focal point for an ornamental border as well. For more information about growing cucumbers, pumpkins, squash and melons, go to www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07609.html.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/26/07.)

July 9 - July 16

Red Hot Poker
(Kniphofia uvaria)

Appearance: Exotic flame-colored flowers that grow on tall spikes and have abundant grassy foliage are what we call the Red-Hot Poker or Torch Lily. This unusual plant resembles a bottle brush. They grow anywhere from 24” to 6’ tall. Because of the yellow to red color, hummingbirds love them.

Cultivation: Red Hot Poker is considered a semi- evergreen perennial which comes up in late May and blooms sometime in the summer to fall depending on the cultivar. This plant likes full sun and a well drained enriched soil that has some compost or other fertilizer added. It needs moderate moisture and is very drought tolerant once it is established. If in full sun it can bloom anytime from late June through early July, however in a shady spot the bloom may come later in the summer. Excessive winter moisture can be detrimental.

Landscape use: Use this plant to add striking accents to a border or xeric garden. It does not like to be moved so select your spot carefully. After flowering, cut back the stalks and the lovely foliage will last late into the fall. For more information about plants that attract hummingbirds, go to; www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/columngw/gr060415.html.

Contributed by Donna Schoen, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/12/07.)

July 2 - July 9

Poppy Mallow, Wine Cups
(Callirhoe involucrata)

Appearance: Are you thirsting for color in your summer garden? Poppy Mallow may be the drink you are looking for. Deep magenta, cup-shaped flowers give this summer blooming perennial one of its common names – "Wine Cups". Its richly colored, five petal flowers have a white center and stand above the green, deeply lobed leaves. Reaching just 5-10 inches in height, it likes room to spread, as much as 20-30 inches at maturity. Blooming from June through late frost gives the garden a splash of color through most of the growing season.

Cultivation: This native thrives in ordinary loam or dry clay soil and is hardy up to 8,000 feet. It prefers full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. Poppy Mallow requires low to moderate watering making it a good choice for a xeric landscape.

Landscape use: With its low growing, spreading habit, Poppy Mallow looks good cascading over walls and tumbling down slopes, but also works well in the front of the border or in a wildflower garden. No matter where you plant it, you can be sure its eye-catching color will liven up the landscape well into the fall. Poppy Mallow was included on the 1999 Plant Select list. You can read more about this year’s Plant Select choices at www.ext.colostate.edu/menugard.html

Contributed by Lisa Bird, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/5/07.)

June 25 - July 2

Lavender
(Lavandula angustifolia)

Appearance: From afar, lavender may be confused with Russian Sage. Typically, lavender is shorter than its look-alike. Lavender is an evergreen shrub that has gray, to gray-green narrow foliage that is very fragrant when brushed. Blooming in July, it sends out long spikes of flowers that may be blue, pink, white or lavender in color. This plant is approximately 12-18” tall by 12-18” wide.

Cultivation: Lavender prefers a sunny site with well-drained soil, and little or no fertilizer. Give this plant good air circulation and mulch with pea gravel or decomposed granite, but not organic materials. Shear back by one-third to one-half every year immediately after bloom to keep it neat and compact. Over time, you may need to cut out older, woody branches.

Landscape use: There are many varieties of lavender but not all are suitable for Colorado Springs’ Zone 5. The English varieties do well here. This aromatic plant attracts bees and butterflies and may be deer and rabbit resistant. Lavender makes an ideal hedge plant, so put it near a pathway where you will brush against it and dream of sunny lavender fields of Provence.

Contributed by Jan Roes, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Diana Brunjes, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/28/07.)

June 18 - 21

Tanager Gazania
(Gazania krebsiana ‘Tanager’)

Appearance: This low mounding flower is a South African native which produces glowing orange blooms with an orange center trimmed in black. The flowering stems are 6-10 inches tall over 3-4 inch mounds of dark green slender leaves. Although a non-stop bloomer from spring to fall, don’t be surprised when the flowers close up at night and on cloudy days.

Cultivation: Although a sun lover, the Gazania may begin to hold back when the temperatures rise. It will also tolerate partial shade. Plant in sandy or loamy soils where it can receive moderate water. It will not tolerate clay soils. To encourage reseeding, plant along gravel paths. This variety should be hardy up to 6,000 feet.

Landscape use: The variety shown here makes an excellent companion to taller blue flowered perennials such as Lavendar, Campanula or Nepeta. Another variety that does well in our area is Gazania linearis ‘Colorado Gold’ which sports bright yellow blooms. Both varieties can be seen at the Carnegie Library gardens.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/21/07.)

June 11 - 18

Allium / Ornamental Onion
(Allium spp.)

Appearance: Over 400 species can be found of this relative of the edible onion. Bearing small flowers in globe-like clusters at the ends of leafless stems, the ornamental allium can range from 6 inches to 5 feet tall. Blooms of white, pink, rose, violet, red, blue or yellow stand watch in the garden bed in spring and summer.

Cultivation: Allium bulbs should be planted in spring or fall in well-drained soil which has been enriched with organic matter. It withstands full sun to partial shade and requires regular watering during growth and bloom. After flowering, let soil go dry. Foliage dies to the ground during winter but while there is no need to lift bulbs for winter, a layer of mulch will add protection. Should you decide to divide your plant, this should be done only after the clumps become crowded.

Landscape use: Plant allium as a garden backdrop, along fences or interspersed among shorter perennials where it will pop up and say “Look at me!” Smaller varieties can be used effectively in rock gardens. The allium makes an excellent cut flower for the fresh or dried bouquets. While some are very fragrant, some may give off an onion scent when bruised. To read more about alliums, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1006.html.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/14/07.)

June 4 - 11

Sweet Woodruff
(Galium odoratum)

Appearance: What is charming, has a pleasing fragrance, pretty blooms, is undemanding AND adds character to any garden? It is our dear Sweet Woodruff. This garden gem with its spoke wheel whorls of leaves and tiny white bouquets is a secret treasure. A long lived perennial ground cover, it can grow to a height of eight inches and will spread a far as you’ll allow.  A mass of tiny white bouquets bloom in April and May.

Cultivation: Sweet Woodruff is adaptable to a wide range of soils and grows easily, even in dry shade. Spreading by stolons along the soil surface, it is easily divided in spring or fall.  It can be established up to 8500 feet and tolerates partial to full shade.

Landscape use: Because of its preference for shaded spots, it makes a great ground cover under trees and shrubs. It also adds great texture in and around taller annuals or perennials. But beware: if your soil is moist and rich you might get more than you bargained for!

Contributed by Kerry Peetz, apprentice Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/7/07.)

May 28 - June 4

Bleeding Heart
(Dicentra spectabilis)

Appearance: Dicentra spectablis is the scientific name for a romantic plant, the Bleeding Heart. Dicentra means “2 spurred” for the showy heart shaped pink flowers which hang like pendants on long, gracefully arching stems surrounded by soft green foliage. Spectabilis means “spectacular.”

Cultivation: Plant Bleeding Heart in a partial shady garden. Growing 18-30 inches tall and 2-3 feet wide, Bleeding Heart prefers moist, fertile soil, amend with organic matter such as compost. After flowering in early summer, this woodland perennial dies down. Cut back and mulch roots to protect them over the winter. After several seasons, you can divide in early spring, but do so with care as roots are brittle.

Landscape use: Also recommended for mountain communities up to 10,000 feet, surround the Bleeding Heart with woodland ferns, vinca minor, or shade loving lilies that will fill the gap left after die back. Be aware that the plant may be harmful if ingested and the foliage may exacerbate skin allergies. For more information about planting for mountain communities, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/Garden/07406.html.

Contributed by Jeanne Hensel, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/31/07.)

May 21 - May 28

Rhubarb
(Rheum x cultorum)

Appearance: That plant with huge green triangular leaves on fat rose-colored petioles (stalks) in the corner of your neighbors’ garden is Rhubarb. It pops up in early spring and will continue to grow to about 2 feet tall.

Cultivation: Rhubarb likes a well-drained soil amended with organic matter and is easily grown in Colorado, requiring full sun to part shade and regular water. Divide rhubarb in the early spring while the plant is dormant. Plant the roots with the crown bud about 2 inches below the surface and 36 to 48 inches apart. Seed planting is not recommended because of our short growing season. Small white clumps of flowers shoot up above the plant and should be removed to promote good production of the edible stalks.

Landscape use: Plant Rhubarb in a spot where it will not be moved as it cannot be harvested until the second season. The tart flavored stalks are used like fruit in sauces, jams, compotes and pies and can usually be harvested for 6-8 weeks before the stalks get hollow or mushy. The leaves are poisonous and should be thrown in the compost heap or discarded. For more vegetable garden hints, go to: cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/719.pdf. (Note: this will download a pdf file to your browser or computer.)

Contributed by Donna Schoen, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Scott Wilson, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/24/07.)

May 14 - May 21

Stonecrop
(Sedum kamtschaticum)

Appearance: Stonecrop is a large genus containing about 400 species of succulent annuals, biennials, perennials, sub-shrubs and shrubs native to the northern hemisphere. Pictured here is the low growing Sedum kamtschaticum. Its trailing stems are set with thick, triangular and somewhat toothed leaves. Flowers open yellow and age to reddish orange.

Cultivation: Hardy to Zone 4, this groundcover is not suitable for areas with foot traffic as the succulent leaves crush easily. Gently spreading by short rhizomes, Sedum kamtschaticum should be planted 9-12 inches apart. It will tolerate poor soil as long as it drains well and will take full sun to partial shade. It is extremely easy to propagate from stem cuttings or division in the spring and requires little to moderate water once established.

Landscape use: Sedum kamtschaticum is great filler for any small space or rock garden. Spilling over onto walkways or brick edging, it softens hardscape, adds texture and great fall color. Its evergreen characteristics allow for no winter cleanup of this plant. Look also for Sedum kamtschaticum ‘Variegatum’ which has cream-edged leaves. For more information about planting groundcovers in Colorado, go to: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/Pubs/garden/07400.html.

Look for Sedum kamtschaticum at the Horticultural Arts Society plant sale Friday, Saturday and Sunday at Monument Valley Park Demonstration Garden.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo courtesy of Joan Nusbaum.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/17/07.)

May 7 - May 14

Pansy
(Viola x wittrockiana)

Appearance: Pansies, one of our most popular spring annuals, can be found in varieties too numerous to mention. Growing 6-10 inches high and 9-12 inches wide, the 2-4 inch flowers offer an extraordinary color range of white, blue, mahogany red, rose, yellow, apricot, purple and bi-colored varieties. Dark blotches appear on the face of the lower three petals. The shiny green leaves are oval to heart-shaped.

Cultivation: Pansies prefer moderately fertile, organically rich, well-drained but cool soil and regular water. While they need some sun for flowering, they tend to fade in the heat of summer. By planting in containers, you can move them to an area with dappled sun when temperatures rise. An area with morning sun and afternoon shade is also ideal. Removing faded flowers promotes continued bloom.

Landscape use: Planting Pansies as a mass border, as cover for spring-flowering bulbs, or with an old-fashioned flair in containers is sure to add colorful delight to your landscape. The longer-stemmed cultivars make a dazzling cut flower while the blossoms from the shorter stemmed sisters can be used as an edible garnish. Cool fall weather may bring another rush of blooming color.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo courtesy of Colorado Master Gardener Joan Nusbaum

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/10/07.)

Apr 30- May 7

Moss Phlox
(Phlox subulata )

Appearance: Moss phlox is a vivid perennial groundcover 6”x 2’at maturity. Native to Eastern United States it adapts well to our Colorado climate and is cold hardy to zone 3. In early to mid-spring phlox presents a dense carpet of lavender, white, purple and vibrant pink star-shaped flowers. Needle-like leaves have a fine prickly texture.

Cultivation: Moss phlox is easy to grow by planting rooted stems in spring or early autumn. Mature clumps can be divided easily. It likes full sun to partial shade and moist, well-drained soil. This plant is mostly pest free but watch for spider mites during heat or drought.

Landscape Use: Moss phlox has a shallow root system and is easily adaptable to rock gardens. It is recommended for the water wise gardener. After flowering cut the stems back one-half to promote new growth, In winter phlox will remain semi-evergreen and will benefit from a light mulch to protect from winter burn. For more information on planting groundcovers in your area, go to: http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07400.html.

Contributed by Eileen Tulley, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo courtesy of Leslie Holzmann

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/3/07.)

Apr 23- Apr 30

Crabapple
(Malus hyb )

Appearance: Flowering crabapple trees, with single to double blooms of white, pink, or carmine, are a beautiful symbol of springtime. Cultivars range from small upright trees 15 feet tall to umbrella-like specimens more than 30 feet across. From narrow columns to weeping, many produce small, ornamental fruit that lasts all winter, in shades of yellow, orange, or red. The simple green leaves of some varieties may have a reddish cast, especially in the spring.

Cultivation: Crabs can live longer and are hardier than other flowering fruit trees. Watch for fireblight, a bacterial disease which can disfigure and eventually kill the tree. For prevention, choose one of the many disease-resistant varieties. Requiring moderate water, the trees tolerate a range of soil types as long as they have good drainage. Only minimal pruning is required to remove suckers and correct shape.

Landscape Use: Their smaller size makes crabapples good candidates for small yards. They may even be espaliered against a fence. With over 200 cultivars available, you can choose a tree that matches your site and provides four seasons of garden interest. ‘Indian Summer’ is an example having orange fall foliage. ‘Molten Lava’ has attractive yellow bark. Consider planting them where fruit drop will not be a problem, although they also make good lawn trees.
For more information about tree selection for our area, go to http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/07418.html.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo courtesy of Leslie Holzmann

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/26/07.)

Oct 1 - 8
Q: Can you give me 10 easy steps on how to put my garden to bed for the winter?

A: Don’t put away those garden tools just yet. There is still work to be done. Let’s do it in these 8 (easy?) steps.

1. Survey your yard. Take a good look. If anything was disappointing this past season this is the time to change it. If you were amazed and dazzled by a flower, shrub or tree that you drove by on your way to work each day this is your opportunity to plant or plan for next season.

2. Remove all broken branches on your trees, shrubs and perennials. To dead-head or not to dead-head? This is a personal preference. You can remove all of your seed heads by cutting them or you may leave them on and enjoy them as your personal winter interest.

3. Clear away weeds and debris. I wouldn’t consider this an “easy” step, but essential to a healthy garden.

4. Divide your perennials. Your crowded spring and early summer bloomers can be transplanted to another place in your garden at this time. Iris and Lilies should be transplanted after they are done blooming and not at this time. If you are not sure about a specific plant that you want to divide then contact the Colorado Master Gardener Help Desk for additional information.

5. Till the soil. Turn over or mix soil layers in vegetable and flower gardens. Incorporate remaining plant debris as you till the soil. Plant material helps enrich the soil by speeding the decay of organic matter. It also disturbs or injures many overwintering pests and exposes them to freezing and predation.

6. Fertilize and aerate your lawn. If you haven’t fertilized your lawn yet this fall go ahead and do so. This is also a great time to aerate. It is perfectly fine to do this on the same day. Fall is not the time to fertilize your perennials.

7. Mulch. Mulching is like adding a protective blanket on a cold winter night. It has a tendency to move around so keep an eye on it. Use your compost if you have some left. Protect your perennials from the winter freeze-thaw cycle that opens cracks in the soil and can expose roots to drying. Evergreen boughs placed over perennials provide added protection. Alternate boughs to lock them together to keep them from blowing away. Having said that there is always one in the crowd that does not need the extra warmth. An example is the Iris. Do NOT mulch over rhizomes since the sun must reach them to facilitate next year’s growth. If freezing weather causes the rhizomes to “heave” out of the soil, simply cover any exposed roots with additional soil.

8. Don’t forget to water! Watering through the fall and winter is essential. With extra attention to winter watering, your landscape plants should emerge from winter healthy and beautiful next spring.

Submitted by Kerry Peetz, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/4/07.)

September 24 - Oct 1
Q: Nurseries are offering discounts on plants right now. Can I still plant in the fall or should I wait now for spring?

A: Fall is an excellent time to plant the garden. Planting perennial plants, deciduous shrubs and trees in the fall allows them to enjoy a more vigorous start when spring arrives. The soil is still warm from summer heating and encourages roots to grow. This enables plants to survive challenging conditions like excessive heat and wind when summer arrives. Roots continue to grow slowly until the soil freezes.

Fall-planted bulbs bring welcome color next spring. Bulbs that grow and bloom in the spring include daffodils, crocus and tulips. There is a correlation between bulb and flower size, so choose large, healthy looking bulbs free of mold. Fertilize at the root zone with a bulb fertilizer high in phosphorous. Plant bulbs among groundcovers for fabulous texture and color early in the season.

Delicate bulbs, such as dahlias, gladiolus, callas and tuberous begonias, cannot survive in the ground over winter. Since they are a welcome accent in the garden, lift them from the ground before hard frost arrives.

When planting perennials in the fall, be sure to water thoroughly at planting and again each week to keep roots from dehydrating prior to hard frosts. Fertilizer is not recommended for fall planting. Mulching is an excellent way to prevent damage to roots from dehydration through long periods of dry weather in fall and winter.

Newly planted trees, shrubs and perennials will be more susceptible to drought injury, so winter watering from October through March is especially important. Therefore, monitor weather conditions and water plants, trees and shrubs during extended dry periods when temperatures are above 40 degrees. Water in mid-day to allow it to soak into the soil before it freezes at night. Watering once or twice per month may be required when there is no snow cover. Established plants need moisture as well. A general rule is 5 gallons of water two times per month for shrubs during dry periods, and 10 gallons per inch of trunk for trees, applied slowly so it can sink in.

Some gardeners suggest that ornamental grasses and evergreen trees and shrubs are best planted in the spring rather than fall. Try to plant earlier in early fall if you want to experiment.

When spring arrives, plants transplanted in the fall will have already begun to become established and will begin to grow. Unlike plants transplanted in the spring, they are better acclimated and will resist spring frost damage. Fall planting also frees up time to accomplish other tasks in the garden. Although most planting occurs in the spring, fall planting is still a glorious time to give your garden a head start.

Submitted by Karen Dayberry, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/27/07.)

September 17 - 24
Q: I bought an assortment of daffodil bulbs a few weeks ago. When and how should I plant them?

A: In Colorado Springs, September or early October is the best time to plant spring bulbs. Bulbs planted at this time will have an opportunity to develop roots and become well established before the ground freezes. Bulbs planted in late October or November may not develop roots until the following spring and will bloom later than earlier plantings. Late planted bulbs will become established during the summer and fall and bloom on schedule the following spring.

The hardest part about planting bulbs is deciding where you want them to grow. Once this hurdle is past, prepare the soil in the areas selected. Many soils in El Paso County contain heavy clay and need to be amended with organic matter to assure that the planted bulbs will be healthy and long lived. Bulbs should be planted deeply; three to four times the diameter of the bulb. Purchased bulbs usually have planting depth guides on the back of the package or on bulk bins. If your soil is sandy, plant the bulb one to two inches deeper than indicated.

A natural looking planting can be made by randomly tossing the bulbs into the area you wish to plant. When this is done, planting holes can be made with a bulb planter or hand trowel. Bulbs usually look best when they are planted in groups. Using a garden spade, dig out the area to be planted. The area can be any desired shape or size but avoid making holes smaller than a dinner plate.

After the soil has been removed, thoroughly mix in about one-third, by volume, of compost, sphagnum moss or well aged animal manure. Keep this pile of soil mix next to your planting hole. Position the bulbs around the bottom of the hole and cover them with the soil mix. Layering different species of bulbs in the hole, from bottom to top, will produce a colorful succession of bloom at the selected location. Cover each layer of bulbs with the soil mix until the hole is filled.

The planted area should be thoroughly watered to help the bulbs get off to a good start. If no rain occurs, or the soil becomes dry during the month after planting, supplemental water should be applied. There is no need to apply fertilizer to the planted area, because the bulbs are storage organs which contain all the nutrients required for shoot and root growth. Fertilizer will not help the bulbs to flower more profusely in the spring, as the flower bud has already formed in the bulb.

People who live in areas of the city where deer frequent their yards should avoid planting tulips, as they are a favorite deer dessert. Daffodils, narcissus and crocus plants are rarely fed upon, but deer will occasionally eat the flowers, but not foliage, of hyacinths.

Submitted by Ed Carley, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/20/07.)

September 10 - 17
Q: I am thinking about planting a blue spruce in my front yard; what can you tell me about them?

A: Did you know the Colorado blue spruce – or Picea pungens glauca - is our state tree? El Paso County residents especially love their large stature, regal branching, year-round blue color. Spruces are widely available, but a reliable nursery will tell you to “plant it as far from the home as possible.” Here are some things to consider before you buy a blue spruce:

Size: Blue spruces do get large – 60 feet tall and 25-30 feet in diameter. This means you have to place the trunk about 15 feet away from anything. They are notorious for encroaching onto sidewalks. Also consider proportion: trees as large as the blue spruce will dwarf a small house, and overwhelm a small yard.

If you like the look of a blue spruce but don’t have the space, consider planting one of the smaller cultivars. ‘Fat Albert’ grows 30 feet tall by 20 feet wide. If that’s not small enough, try ‘R.H. Montgomery,’ which reaches only 12 feet tall by 8 feet wide. There are even dwarf blue spruces available for rock gardens and entry ways such as ‘Glauca Globosa,’ which reach 4 feet tall by 5 feet wide. These cultivars provide the same brilliant blue evergreen color without the mammoth headache.

Location: Since blue spruces are evergreen, they will cast a solid shadow year round, so it is best to place it 100 feet or more away from things that you want to receive sun in the winter, like sidewalks, buildings and driveways. Likewise, they should be planted 30 feet away from power lines and houses. Your little tree will look lonely so far from other things, but resist the temptation to plant it closer, or the future owners will be forced to take an axe to it!

Planting: Container-grown evergreen trees can be planted at any time during the growing season, but other forms, like bare root, succeed best when planted in the spring. Dig a bowl-shaped hole 3 to 5 times wider than the root ball or container, but only deep enough that the top of the root ball sits 1-2 inches above the existing soil grade. Amend clay soil with coarse organic matter, or sandy soil with fine organic matter.

Care: Blue spruces are native to Colorado, and flourish in wetter climates, as in a draw with a stream. Therefore, they can be planted in or near an irrigated lawn, and will benefit from supplemental water in drier conditions. Regular winter watering is recommended to avoid desiccation.

Trimming: If planted correctly, your spruce will not need to be trimmed. However, if an existing spruce needs to be trimmed, cut off little as possible; as with all evergreens, if a branch is trimmed back to where there are no needles, new growth is not likely, and the tree may end up with a dead-looking patch. It is possible to cut off the bottom branches, or limb up a spruce, but it loses its stately appearance, and may become top-heavy.

Pests: In the spring, homeowners are often concerned about strange cone-like objects on their spruces. These are a growth called a gall, and caused by the Cooley spruce gall adelgid, but are generally harmless to spruce. Spruces can also be damaged by the white pine weevil, which attacks the main terminal branch in early summer, causing it to die back; this will result in a bushier tree, but will usually survive. The Douglas-fir tussock moth is the most serious pest for spruces on the Front Range. Its larvae appear in spring as small, hairy caterpillars that feed on, and killing, newer needles. Although there are several natural controls of Douglas-fir tussock moths, chemical controls, especially pyrethroids, may need to be applied as the eggs hatch.

Submitted by Brook Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/13/07.)

September 3 - 10
Q: How can I successfully select roses that will grow and flourish here in Colorado Springs and the surrounding area?

A: Your garden can bloom from spring through fall, year after year, by choosing a variety of hardy perennial plants. These plants will thrive in our often harsh conditions of low rain, intense sunlight, and widely varying temperatures, especially if you remember some simple planting basics.

Planting basics means putting plants in the right location: sunny vs. shady. Consider adding organic material to the soil before you plant to give your new plants plenty of nutrients. Mulch your newly planted flowers to preserve moisture and cut down on invading weeds.

There are a number of long-flowering plants that bloom in a variety of colors from spring through fall.

Yarrow (Achillea spp.) come in a white, yellow, pink and red. They do well in dry conditions and full sun. The foliage is feathery and fern-like and the flowers also make excellent dried flowers. The white flowered variety can be an aggressive spreader, so only plant it where you don’t mind it taking over.

Beardtongues (Penstemon spp.) come in white, blue, purple pink, magenta, and red. There are low-growing varieties suitable for rock gardens and tall varieties suitable for flower beds. Consider low-growing pineleaf penstemon (Penstemon pinefolius) with evergreen needlelike foliage and reddish-orange flowers for a hot, dry, sunny location. For a tall variety try Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus) a sturdy variety that has blue or purple flowers.

Jupiter’s beard (Centranthus ruber), also known as red valerian grows well in either bright shade or full sun and has hot pink flowers. It is adaptable to dry or moist soils though a little extra water will encourage blooming. Deadheading also promotes continual blooming and this plant also self-seeds and will spread.

Butterfly weed (Asclepias tuberosa) is a tall plant – growing up to two feet – that is drought-hardy and its orange flowers are good for cutting. It self-seeds and is attractive to bees and butterflies. It does well in sandy soils and full sun.

Try monkshood (Aconitum napellus) in a shady area. A moderate water user, it has blue violet flowers which also are good for cutting. It has lacy foliage and it should be considered that all parts of the plant are poisonous and pests tend to leave the foliage alone.

Many varieties of veronica (such as Veronica spicata) are very drought hardy and have pink or purple flowers on long stems. They do well in full sun or part shade.

Daylilies (Hemerocallis spp.) have thick-leaved, grass-like foliage and are extremely dependable. They will spread and can be divided to make more plants. They come in a wide variety of colors and do well in full sun to part shade.

Mexican evening primrose (Oenothera speciosa) attracts butterflies and is partial to sun. It has pale pink or white blooms. Be careful, since it will spread and can become invasive.

If you like yellow, daisy-like flowers try Coreopsis grandiflora or Coreopsis verticillata. They are very drought hardy and the flowers are good for cutting.

Besides this sampling of plants that bloom throughout the growing season, another way to have continuous flowers all summer long is to plant a variety of perennials that bloom at different times. There are also lots of blooming shrubs that do well in our region. Finally many flowering annuals bloom throughout the growing season and do well in flower beds or as container plantings.

Submitted by Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/30/07.)

August 27 - Sep 3
Q: How can I have color in my garden the whole season? What plants would you suggest?

A: The initial selection criteria are of the utmost importance. You will need to consider the following guidelines.

Hardiness is one of the most important factors to consider. Select USDA zone 4 (very winter hardy) or zone 5 (winter hardy). Depending on where you live, I recommend no lower than zone 5 – the south side of town can do zone 6 with good winter protection practices.

Try to select disease resistant varieties when possible. Look for “disease resistant”, "easy care" or "low maintenance" when shopping for a rose.

A minimum of 6-8 hours of sun per day is best for optimal flowering and growth. An eastern exposure, which receives morning sun, is ideal. Roses grow best in well-drained soil and can decline with standing water around their root system. Make sure the site is open to allow for air movement, and be sure to provide some shelter to protect roses from prevailing winds.

Most roses grow 3 to 6 feet tall and just as wide. However, some roses are miniatures that form tiny shrubs just a foot high. Others are ramblers that can hit 40 or more feet. Some are groundcover roses that spread 10 feet but don't get more than 2 feet high. Make sure to consider these factors when selecting the location for the rose.

It is important to amend your soil before planting. The soil mix should be two-thirds original soil from your site and one-third soil amendment. The soil amendment will improve drainage, aeration, and enable nutrient holding capacity. Well rotted manure or an organic compost and bonemeal both before planting and as an annual mulch in the spring will make almost any soil suitable.

In order to ensure that your roses survive the winter, make sure to deep plant initially. After the first hard frost, bury the stems with about ten inches of compost or shredded bark. If using rose collars, apply after the first frost and fill with mulch to protect the graft union from winter kill – remove the collar in early spring.

Winter watering: Water at least once a month during the winter, more if there is no snow cover.

Temperatures should be over 45 degrees and should be done in the early part of the day. This will greatly improve the survival of rose bushes in Colorado.

The most popular class of rose grown today is the hybrid tea. These roses require a protective sight, winter water and mulch to ensure survival. Some excellent choices are: Gemini, Mister Lincoln, Peace, Veteran’s Honor, First Prize, Moonstone, Touch of Class, and Double Delight.

Floribundas are easy to grow plants that produce flowers that are smaller than a hybrid tea and in bouquet-like clusters. They are a superb choice for mass planting, as they provide blooms and vibrant colors all summer. Some excellent choices are: Livin’ Easy, Julia Child, Hot Cocoa, Judy Garland, Iceberg, Rainbow Sorbet, Marmalade Skies, and Simply Marvelous.

Climbers are always a popular choice. There are natural climbers and climbing forms of hybrid teas (or other bush roses). Both categories send out long canes that need support from walls, fences, trellis, etc. Some excellent choices are: Blaze, Cecil Brunner, America, Altissimo, White Dawn, and William Baffin.

Shrubs and landscape roses are among the easiest to grow. These ever bloomers have more disease and insect resistance and require less pruning than traditional garden varieties. Also there are fewer thorns, the flowers fall off on their own (less deadheading), and they are grown on their own root stock. They are available in three growth forms: upright plants, mounding shrubs, and groundcovers. Some excellent choices are: Bonica, Be-Bop, Knockout, Oranges 'N' Lemons, Magic Meidiland, Rabble Rouser, Pillow Fight, and Gourmet Popcorn.

The miniature rose is a dwarf version of a hybrid tea, floribunda or climber. They have tiny flowers and some plants are as small as 5 inches in height. Generally, miniatures grow 12-24" in height. Miniatures bloom earlier and longer than standard roses. They are quite hardy when given protection with mulch and winter watering. They require the same care as other roses but are less picky about pruning than hybrid teas. Some excellent choices are: Denver’s Dream, Andie MacDowell, Jeanne Lajoie (climber), Bees Knee’s, Caliente, and Leading Lady.

Remember to choose rose varieties that are recommended for our high altitude and climate.

Whatever rose you select, by using the above guidelines, you will certainly be more successful and quite proud of your rose each summer.

Submitted by Jackie Goodwin, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/30/07.)

August 20 - 27
Q: How can I make sure that what I plant around my house is sensible so that my home is safe from fire?

A: There are no fireproof plant species, so where and how you plant is more important than what you plant.

Here are some basic principles to consider when making fire wise landscaping decisions.

1. Choose low growing plants when planting close to your home and space them widely.
2. Group plants in small irregular clusters or islands rather than in large, mass plantings.
3. Use decorative rocks, gravel, and stepping stones to break up planting areas.
4. Use mulches to preserve moisture and prevent weed growth.
5. Provide supplemental water to plants closest to your house in times of drought or water rationing.

Even though all plant material is flammable, you can still choose plant species that tend to be resistant to wildfires. Planting a variety of plants is not only visually satisfying, but helps to keep pests and diseases under control. And always group plants together according to their needs for water, sun or shade, and tolerance wind, heat, or cold.

Grass seed mixes developed for Colorado contain a combination of native and non-native species. They are low growing and require less moisture. While they take longer to establish, they can help reduce the risk of wildfire damage.

Ground cover plants provide a variety of color and texture and help reduce soil erosion. When planted in rock gardens, raised beds, or surrounded by walkways, they provide barriers to the spread of fire. Pinks (Dianthus spp.), Yarrow (Achillea spp.), Coral Bells, (Heuchera spp.), Lavender (Lavandula spp.), Stonecrop (Sedum spp.), and Thyme (Thymus spp.) are some examples of flowers and ground covers that do well in our climate.

Shrubs concern fire professionals because they can add to the amount of fuel available for spreading fires. Plant low-growing shrubs so they are widely separated. Don’t plant them under windows, vents, decks, or under trees or use them to mask propane tanks or firewood piles. Prune dead stems from shrubs annually and keep grasses mowed low around them. Little-leaf mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus intricatus), Rabbitbrush (Chrysothamnus spp.), Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa), and Shrubby cinquefoil (Potentilla fruticosa) are some examples of shrubs that do well in our climate.

Carefully plan the placement of trees so that they are not too close to the house and leave plenty of room to allow for their mature growth. Keep lower branches pruned to at least ten feet above the ground. Remove dead branches and leaf litter to reduce possible sources of fuel. Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.), Crabapple (Malus spp.), Hawthorn (Crataegus spp) and the Common lilac (Syringa vulgaris) are examples of large trees or shrubs that do well in our area.

For more details on Fire Wise Plantings, see CSU fact sheets 6.303, 6.305, and 6.306.

Submitted by Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/23/07.)

August 13 - 20
Q: What’s wrong with my plants? Some of my plants are doing pretty well, but others just don’t look right. They have a white dusty looking film on the leaves and still others have dozens of small holes in the leaves.

A: It sounds like you have more than one problem going on. Diagnosing the origin of plant problems can be challenging because there can be many different causes. Hold the spray until you identify the cause; spraying pesticides blindly can have negative environmental consequences and rarely solves the problem.

In order to get started there are four things you need to know.

1. Identify the plant. It’s essential to know what kind of plant is affected.
2. What does it look like when it’s healthy?
3. What are the growing requirements for the plant?
4. What are the main pests and diseases of the species in question?

Factors causing plant damage can be grouped into two major categories. Living factors include pests such as slugs, insects, mites, rodents, rabbits, and deer. Other living factors, which are difficult to see with the naked eye, include fungi, bacteria, and viruses.

Non-living factors, such as improper planting techniques, temperature extremes, hail, lack of moisture, and violent wind, cause the majority of plant damage in El Paso County. The improper use of fertilizers and pesticides can also damage plants. Included in this group is mechanical damage caused by weed eaters or lawn mowers.

The first step is to take a look around the planting site. How many plants are affected? Are the affected plants all the same species? Non-living factors usually affect multiple species and appear suddenly. Living factors usually affect only one species and worsen over time.

The second step is to examine the affected plants carefully. Note the symptoms of plant damage. Are there spots or holes in the leaves? Do the leaves appear bronzed due to flecking wounds caused by tiny insects? Do you notice bore holes, chewing marks, or cankers along the branches or trunk? A careful inventory of the symptoms helps narrow down likely causes.

Third, take note of any insects on the flowers, foliage, or stems. Problems caused by insects are the easiest to diagnose because you can often find the culprit near the injured plant part. Diseases are more difficult to diagnose because the actual disease organism is difficult to see without a microscope.

Furthermore, be aware that symptoms on the leaves don’t necessarily indicate the cause is on the foliage. Often root problems are the cause. Look for wire baskets, burlap, or twine left on the root ball during planting.

The fourth step is to note the timing of the development of the symptoms. Did the symptoms appear suddenly or gradually over a period of weeks? Wrong application of pesticide can produce injury symptoms in a few hours, but insects or diseases cause problems over a period of time.

Once these four steps are accomplished you can begin ruling out unlikely causes. Sometimes a proper diagnosis requires professional help. Free assistance is available from the Master Gardener Help Desk at the CSU Extension office.

To get the best diagnosis, bring a sample of the distressed plant. Insects that are feeding on the plant can be placed in a plastic bag. Bring several branches of woody plants at least 12” long that show the different stages of the symptoms. The CSE Extension office is located at 305 South Union Blvd. Office hours are 8:30 to 4:30 daily.

Once the problem is diagnosed you can move on to the next step: developing a corrective management plan.

Submitted by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/16/07.)

August 6 - 13
Q: The lettuce I planted this spring is bitter-tasting and producing flowers. What can I plant in its place?

A: The height of the summer is upon us. Right now, most gardeners are enjoying their warm season crops such as tomatoes, peppers, corn, and beans. However, the best gardeners harvest with one hand and plant future crops with the other.

But don’t be fooled; cool weather is right around the corner. Now is the time to plant cool season crops for a fall harvest. Cool season crops are vegetables that require mild temperatures for the best taste and quality. They are typically planted in early spring, and again in mid-summer for a second crop.

There are many cool season vegetables that grow very well in southern Colorado. Some examples include dark leafy greens, root crops, and broccoli. Here are some specific examples.

Carrots: Nothing tastes sweeter than a carrot pulled freshly out of the ground. For a mid-summer planting, choose a short cultivar of carrots, like Nantes, rather than longer carrots. Short carrots take less time to grow.

Swiss chard: Swiss chard is actually a relative of the beet. Rather than producing a sweet root, it produces delicious green leaves. It tastes similar to spinach, mild and sweet, but stands up better to cooking. Swiss chard is chock full of vitamins and minerals.

Bok Choy: Most people think of bok choy as an Asian vegetable, but it grows very well in southern Colorado. It has delicious white, crunchy stems plus nutritious green leaves. It is commonly used in stir fries and wraps.

Cauliflower: One of the more difficult vegetables to grow, cauliflower requires constant moisture and good soil fertility. Since it is sensitive to cold, mid-summer plantings are more successful than early spring plantings. Tie the leaves around the flower head when it begins to form to prevent off-flavors and sun damage.

Beets: Beets are extremely easy to grow here and very high in vitamin C. One cultivar called Early Wonder will produce beets in about 50 days.

Turnips: White-fleshed turnips grow wild in Siberia. The highest quality turnips are planted in mid-summer, harvested in fall, and stored for winter use. Turnips can be roasted or used in soups.

By planting in early August, cool season vegetables have time to produce before being killed by the first fall frost, which usually occurs during the first two weeks of October. In addition, some cool season crops can withstand freezing temperatures. Lettuce is a classic example. These vegetables will produce all the way through late October into November.

Submitted by Catherine Moravec, Horticulture Extension Agent. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/9/07.)

August 6 - 13
Q: I’ve seen some bee-like insects flying around my home. Are they going to sting me?

A: Black and yellow (or orange) striped, flying insects are often mistaken for bees; some friends and some foes. But there are a number of insects that fit this general description. Before deciding what to do about a black and yellow striped insect, it can be beneficial to find out what kind of insect you have encountered.

One of the main differences between honeybees, bumblebees, and other striped insects like hornets and wasps is that honeybees and bumblebees look furry or hairy.

Honeybees live in colonies year round. They pollinate many crops and create honey that they store for their own food. We benefit both from their pollination efforts and we harvest their excess honey. Honeybees are generally not aggressive unless they feel threatened. If they sting, the barbed stinger is pulled out and remains in the skin; the bee dies.

Bumblebees are somewhat larger than honeybees though they vary in size due to whether the insect is a small worker or large queen. They also live in colonies, but the colonies are abandoned at the end of the year as only the queen survives. Bumblebees are often used to pollinate greenhouse tomatoes. Bumblebees sting in self defense but the stinger is not left behind.

There are a variety of ground-nesting bees such as digger and carpenter bees, sweat bees, and acute-tongued burrowing bees. These solitary insects do not live in colonies. The females construct nests by digging in soil. These bees are not aggressive and rarely sting; the stinger is not barbed and only mildly painful. Some male carpenter bees will buzz aggressively if their nest is approached, but they lack a stinger and are harmless.

Tachinid flies, also known as flower flies or hover flies are sometimes mistaken for bees. They look like small houseflies flies but their bodies have the distinctive black and yellow stripes. They are often found flying around flowers while searching for nectar. They are an excellent predator of aphids and they do not sting.

Narcissus bulb flies are insects that infest narcissus, daffodil, lily tulip, hyacinth, and amaryllis bulbs. They look very much like small bumble bees.

Yellowjackets, hornets, and paper wasps are all varieties of social wasps. What we often refer to as bee stings are really stings by these insects. Hornets and paper wasps are beneficial to gardeners as they are excellent predators of garden pest insects. Yellowjackets are scavengers of dead insects, carrion and garbage. Hornets construct nests in trees, shrubs or under eaves. The nests can reach the size of a basketball by the end of summer. Paper wasps construct open-celled nests in sheltered areas. All the social wasps can give painful stings and the stinger is not left in the skin.

Bees are best left alone to provide beneficial services to the environment. Commonly sold wasp traps can effectively control yellowjackets. For other species, if the wasps are not causing a problem the best solution is to wait until the nests are abandoned in the fall, then move or destroy them. Active wasp nests causing problems can be treated with insecticides.

Submitted by Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

July 30 - August 6
Q: Is there any real benefit in landscaping with native plants?

A: There are many reasons to use native plants in the landscape, but first let's define what a native plant is. According to the Federal Native Plant Conservation Committee a native plant is a plant species that occurs naturally in a particular region, state, ecosystem, and habitat. The term “Rocky Mountain native" refers to plants that existed in the Rocky Mountain region prior to European settlement. Native plants have survived for generations without our help, proof of their resilience.

Natives are a very good choice for the home landscape.

• For our water conscious gardens many require little if any supplemental water.
• They can tolerate the typically poor soils of Colorado. Loosening of very compacted soils to a depth of 1-2 feet or adding organic matter to heavy clay or very sandy, gravelly soils can improve native plant health and survival.
• Planting natives promotes the natural habitat necessary for many of our native insects, birds, and animals, maintaining our local biological diversity.
• Landscaping with natives gives the garden a style that is unique to this area, a greater sense of continuity with our natural surroundings.
• Native plants are less likely to become invasive. You will never see a native species on the noxious weed list.
• Natives generally require less maintenance.

As the Western Water-wise or Xeric garden style has grown, so has the demand for native plants. Many Colorado nurseries now stock natives as well as cultivars of natives - plants that have been bred from native parents to produce new flower colors or forms or enhance the natural form of a plant. Many of the nursery penstemons are examples of this. Examples of easy-to-grow native flowers include purple poppy mallow, a spreading groundcover with striking magenta flowers, and desert four-o’clock, a mounding blue-tinged plant with graceful purple blooms.

It is important to purchase only plants that have been nursery grown and not collected from the wild. Wild collection can be illegal and is damaging to our natural eco-system. Ask your nursery to provide information on the source of native plants before you buy.

Colorado State University maintains a website that has a comprehensive list of Colorado native flora county by county, as well as an extensive photo archive of native species. This information can help you choose plants that are desirable for your garden.
http://herbarium.biology.colostate.edu/index.htm

A rich palette of native plants exists from the plains of Eastern Colorado to the alpine meadows of the Rocky Mountains. There are trees, shrubs, grasses, wildflowers, ground covers, water- lovers from the streams and lakes, to cacti from the arid places. Whether you plant an entire garden of native plants or just use them here and there, every garden should make room for the noble natives.

Submitted by Lisa Bird, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/2/07.)

July 23 - July 30
Q: I’m putting in a new lawn and I’ve heard of a grass described as a hybrid of Texas bluegrass and Kentucky bluegrass. What are the advantages of this grass?

A: Hybrid bluegrass is the hot topic in turf. Developed at Texas A&M University, hybrid bluegrass is a cross between Kentucky bluegrass and Texas bluegrass. Native to southwest U.S., Texas bluegrass has a higher heat and drought tolerance than Kentucky bluegrass. Hybrid bluegrass promises a great looking lawn that stands up to summer’s heat.

Why would you use a hybrid instead of the long-time favorite Kentucky bluegrass? Research at Colorado State University as well as field observations from other states suggests a number of potential advantages.

Excellent heat tolerance - Hybrid bluegrass seems to remain greener in warmer temperatures. Kentucky bluegrass varieties normally brown from their naturally tendency to go dormant in high heat (upper 80’s -100’s), but the hybrid bluegrass maintains a more active summer growth. This increases traffic tolerance and speeds recovery from wear and tear.

Deep roots - Hybrid bluegrass develops an extensive root system that makes water and nutrients more readily available to the plant and increases heat and drought resistance. Underground stem (rhizome) growth is also more aggressive than Kentucky bluegrass, forming more growing points for new grass plants.

Less water – Initial studies indicate these hybrid bluegrasses require less irrigation than the standard varieties of Kentucky bluegrass. Because they form deeper roots, the hybrids can sustain growth with less supplemental watering. They can resist drought as well as, or maybe better, than the most drought tolerant Kentucky bluegrass cultivars.

Ease of transplanting – The hybrid sod is less susceptible to the shock of transplanting and recovers more quickly, even without immediate watering.

Low mowing heights – This hybrid can be mowed to a lower level than many Kentucky bluegrasses, especially during the heat of summer, providing that neatly trimmed golf course appearance.

Gardner Turfgrass introduced the first commercially available variety of hybrid bluegrass called ‘Reveille’. The Scotts Company manufactures the hybrids ‘Thermal Blue’, ‘Thermal Blue Blaze’, ‘Solar Green’ and ‘DuraBlue’. Another hybrid from the Turf Seed Company is ‘Longhorn’. Check with sod farms and garden centers to find hybrid seeds and sod available in our area.

During this summer, a number of the commercially available and experimental Kentucky and Texas hybrids will be grown and evaluated at Colorado State University in Fort Collins to determine heat, drought and traffic tolerance. This research will help determine the true performance and best applications of hybrid bluegrass. Contact the CSU Extension office at 719-636-8921 for more information.

Submitted by Valerie Smith, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/26/07.)

July 16 - July 23
Q: Each year I seem to be fighting the same weeds in my lawn and garden. Is there any way to get ahead in this battle?

A: Weeds are the bane of a gardener’s existence. Those same conditions that made the lawn green and garden plants take off this spring had the same effect on weeds.

Weeds share several common characteristics. They compete with desirable plants for light, moisture, space and minerals. Often, weeds harbor plant diseases or insect pests. They may be poisonous, be an allergenic or an irritant to humans and/or livestock. They have invasive characteristics that allow them to readily move into new areas and literally take over. Sometimes weeds are non-native or noxious plants that have no natural controls.

Several factors make weeds especially successful. They can be aggressive with root systems that spread underground with amazing speed. They can produce thousands of seeds that remain viable in the soil for years. Some weeds exude substances into the soil to inhibit growth of plants around it. Other weeds have modified photosynthetic processes that allow them to excel in very hot weather while desirable plants are slowing their growth.

In order to control weeds, identification of the life cycle is necessary. Summer annual weeds such as crabgrass, foxtail, ragweed, tumbleweed, barnyard grass and goosegrass produce seed at the end of each growing season. New plants reappear the following year. Winter annuals such as redstem filaree, shepherds purse, or mustard, also spread by seed but germinate in late summer or fall, live over winter as small tufts or rosettes, resume growth in spring and produce seed early in the summer. Biennial weeds such as musk thistle, burdock, and houndstongue require two growing seasons to make it to the flowering stage and seed production.

The tougher weeds survive year after year AND produce seed. Simple perennial weeds such as dandelion and broadleaf plantain reproduce both by seed and a root crown that produces new shoots every spring. Creeping perennials such as Canada thistle and field bindweed reproduce by seed and creeping rooting systems.

Managing summer annuals, winter annuals, and biennials consists of preventing seed production and depleting the seed bank. In order to manage simple perennials and creeping perennials, efforts must be made to prevent seed production, deplete the seed bank, and in addition, stress existing plants to exhaust food reserves.

Integrated weed management is a combination of four control options: cultural, mechanical, biological and chemical. The goal is to make life for the weed unsuccessful through a multi-pronged approach.

Cultural weed controls include increasing turf or landscape density, reducing or increasing irrigation, increasing or decreasing fertilizer, decreasing soil compaction, and decreasing or increasing sunlight.

Mechanical weed controls refer to the pulling, cutting, mowing, or smothering (with mulch) of the undesirable plants.

Biological weed controls refer to the use of carefully screened insects and/or disease organisms to attack portions of the weed, more often used in commercial food production operations such as the fruit crop on the Western Slope.

Chemical controls or herbicides work in two ways. There are pre-emergent herbicides that are applied to the soil prior to seed germination and inhibit root development. Timing is critical because different weed seeds germinate at different times of the year.

There are also post-emergent herbicides that are applied to the foliage of actively growing plants. These herbicides attack the weed either systemically by disrupting physiological processes (good for perennial weeds) or by contact, desiccating the plant (effective on annuals). Post-emergent herbicides are either selective, attacking specific weeds listed on the label, or non-selective which mean all vegetation is killed by its use.

Noxious weeds or escaped ornamentals are more invasive by nature and are often more difficult to control. Refer to the website for the Colorado Weed Management Association www.cwma.org for identification or bring a sample to the Colorado Master Gardener Help Desk at 305 S. Union Blvd.

Submitted by Peg Zimprich, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/19/07.)

July 9 - July 16
Q: I've seen a large, grotesque, light brown, scorpion like insect near the foundation of my home. What is it and is it poisonous?

A: That is a very good description of a sun spider. The sun spider is an arthropod, related to the arachnids, but is not an insect. It has four pairs of legs and two body sections, not the three pairs of legs and three body parts of an insect. They are neither a spider nor a scorpion, but a member of the order, Solpugida. What make this arthropod unique are the lobster claw-like appendages growing out of each side of its head. In addition, they have unusually large jaws giving them a frightening appearance. Most sun spiders will grow to an inch or more in length and survive the winter by burrowing under rocks. Many people know them as "wind scorpions" because they are extremely active and ..."run like the wind." Tiny hooks on their appendages enable them to scamper up vertical surfaces. Not surprisingly, several creatures have recently been brought into the CSU Extension Office to be identified.

Sun spiders tend to be mostly nocturnal and are drawn to illuminated ground areas, preying upon the other arthropods and insects that the light attracts...They are regarded as beneficial, or one of the “good guys” because of their voracious appetites. They can be found up and down the Front Range, but are most numerous in the more desert like Southern part of the county.

Sun spiders are not poisonous. They have no venom glands. They are normally not aggressive, but can bite a human if cornered or mishandled. A disinfectant should be used on bite wounds to prevent infection. It is rare for sun spiders to enter homes if foundation cracks are well sealed. However, if found inside your home, carefully scoop them up in a container and dispose of them outdoors.

Another interesting arthropod related to the arachnids that will seen later in the growing season is the daddy-long-legs. Their unusually long legs extend out from a small body segment. Despite an old belief, they, too, are non-poisonous. Although harmless, they can be an annoyance if found in large numbers around your yard or patio.

For more information, go to www.colostate.edu or call the Master Gardener Hotline at 636-8921.

Submitted by Ruth Levy, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/12/07.)

July 2 - July 9
Q: I’m new to gardening. What kind of tools do I need? I love my new hobby but I wonder, will this be expensive?

A: There’s a wide range of tools available for gardening but you only need a few of them to get a garden underway. And, tools are very personal. Many gardeners are as passionate about their tools as they are their plants. Here’s a selection of ten essential garden tools:

Shovel. A long-handled spade shovel will get you started digging. This may be your most important tool. A shovel with a fiberglass handle will be strong and long lasting though many people still prefer a wood handle. Just make sure you are comfortable with the feel and weight of the shovel.

Rake. You’ll need two kinds: a rake with rigid steel tines is good for leveling soil, removing small stones and spreading mulch, while the more flexible plastic fan rake gathers leaves and other lawn debris. The fan rake can be 24” to 30” wide but there are also smaller fan rakes 12” to 18” wide ideal to clean up around shrubs and perennials.

Garden Fork. So called because this looks like a large dinner fork on a long handle, also called a pitchfork. Useful for breaking up clods of clay, uprooting spent vegetables and annuals, and loosening soil around plants to aerate compacted soil.

Hand trowel. A must-have tool -- it’s used for digging small planting holes as well as scooping soil into pots. There are many sizes and options. A narrow 1 _” wide hand trowel is perfect for planting French garden containers where plants are often squeezed together. Another refinement is a ‘seeder slot’ or small opening on the side of the hand trowel which is helpful spreading tiny seeds onto the soil surface.

Hand claw. A small cultivating tool that’s often used with the hand trowel. One digs, the other smoothes the soil. It’s also good for loosening soil and removing weeds around plants. These are the tools often used when we’re on our knees, hands in the soil, and feel we are really gardening.

Pruning shears. Good pruning shears make a sharp, clean cut. There are three main types. The most popular kind is the bypass pruner with two curved blades working like scissor blades. The anvil pruner has a single straight-edged cutting blade that closes on a softer metal, the anvil. Anvil pruners are excellent for cutting dead branches, but are not recommended for cutting live branches since they crush the tissue. Crushed tissue is less likely to heal well. A ratchet pruner eases the effort needed to make a cut by cutting through branches in stages.

Loppers. A long-handled cutting tool that cuts branches up to 1” diameter. Useful when you can’t reach the branch with pruning shears

Pruning saw. For branches larger than 1” in diameter, use a pruning saw. Available with a straight or curved blade.

Hose. While many people wouldn’t call a hose a garden ‘tool,’ water is the lifeblood of your plants. Buy a good quality, kink-free hose that’s long enough to reach the furthest part of your garden. Some people find a hose sprawling across the yard unsightly. There are winding hose reels that make it easy to contain the hose, or simply lay out the hose in a figure 8 pattern to keep it manageable.

Wheelbarrow. Whether you’re toting plants, tools, compost or other gardening items, a wheelbarrow is nice to have. Alternatively, four-wheeled carts are a more stable substitute.

When it comes to cost always buy the best tools you can afford. Tools can be expensive, but not necessarily. Many tools, if properly taken care of, will last a lifetime.

These are some of the basics that will get you started. I’d add gardening gloves, a hat or visor and sunscreen as essential to safe gardening. Most gardeners agree that good tools make gardening more fun!

Submitted by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/5/07.)

June 25 - July 2
Q: HELP! My rose buds are covered with lots of little light-green bugs, and are starting to look horrible!

A: Those are most likely to be aphids, a common sight in Colorado Springs gardens in the spring and summer.

There are many different types of aphids attracted to different plants, and they come in a wide variety of colors: light green, orange to dark brown. Aphids feed on plants by sucking plant sap from the leaves, twigs and stems. If the infestation is severe, aphid feeding can reduce the plant’s growth and vigor.

Most aphids excrete large quantities of a sweet, sticky substance called honeydew. Honeydew is harmless, but a nuisance when you find sticky droplets on your car that you cleverly parked in the shade of a tree. Ants are attracted to honeydew, and when seen crawling up a tree trunk, can be the first clue to a gardener that a tree has aphids in it.

All aphids are females in the summer. They reproduce asexually, bearing up to 20 live young a day. This is why they seem to show up in large numbers overnight.

Fortunately for us, aphids have many natural insect predators: syrphid flies, green lacewings, small parasitic wasps, and our children’s favorite, the voracious lady beetle.

Rose aphids overwinter in the rose canes, so one way to control them is to cut back old rose canes in early spring. Another easy thing to do is spray the insects with a blast of water from your hose. Most aphids are quite delicate, so a strong spray of water can permanently dislodge them. Alternatively, horticultural soaps provide good control, without any risk to the gardener.

If your aphid problem is getting out of hand, and your plant or tree is really suffering year after year, there are horticultural oils and pesticides that can be used. In mid-June, it is common to see leaf-curling damage caused by aphids on lilacs. These are best treated with a systemic insecticide such as imidacloprid, which is applied to the soil, and is distributed throughout the plant’s system via the roots.

For more information about aphids, and ways to control them, please visit our Master Gardener Helpdesk from 8:30 to 4:30, Monday through Friday, located at 305 S. Union Boulevard; phone 363-8921. You can read more about aphids from our fact sheet at www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/INSECT/05511.html.

Submitted by Brook Mark, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/28/07.)

June 18 - 25
Q: I’ve heard about a demonstration garden in downtown Colorado Springs. Where is the garden and is it open to the public?

A: The Carnegie Library now has a demonstration garden and public area tucked between the library and the former Knights of Columbus building at 25 West Kiowa Street. Open to the public from 10:00 AM to 2:00 PM, Monday through Friday, the garden showcases Plant Select varieties and plants chosen for our high, dry and light- intensive climate. Master Gardeners, volunteers and library staff created an interactive garden to serve as an education area and retreat in downtown.

In the garden you can see a variety of interesting grasses, shrubs, perennials and trees. Carla Anderson, landscape architect and garden designer states, “The garden allows visitors to see a plant’s shape, form and color and how it performs in a difficult climate. Some plants, such as the barberry, show a variation on a theme exhibiting a pygmy, shrub and columnar form.”

Behind the gated entry, the garden integrates a public area, stage, benches; sculpture by local artists, stepped stone walls and gardens. As you walk through the gate, you enter a grassy public area lined with Autumn Brilliance serviceberries and benches. In the corner is a stage for public performances, reading groups and ceremonies. Through an arbor, flagstone steps lead down into the garden, wrapping around the Carnegie Library Building and visible from the main library.

The low water demonstration garden covers terraces of Colorado Siloam stone, highlighting a variety of plant colors and textures. A sampling of the plants currently in bloom include an Austrian copper rose, Cheyenne mock orange, Apache plume, Goldflame honeysuckle, Prairie jewel penstemon, Spanish gold broom, Chocolate flowers (yes, they smell like chocolate) and Colorado gold gazania.

Master Gardener docents are on hand to answer questions and provide information on the plants’ flowering season, mature size and cultural requirements. The Master Gardeners are eager to share their experience, so bring a lunch, bring a friend and enjoy a garden that will inspire and delight.

For more information about the garden, visit the Library’s website at www.ppld.org.

Submitted by Valerie Smith, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/21/07.)

June 11- 18
Q: Now that warm weather is here, which vegetables can I plant to make the most of my small garden space?

A: Many vegetables taste best, and are more nutritious, fresh from the garden. Here are some that are easy to grow and take little room.

Swiss chard, although often overlooked, makes an excellent choice for a summer garden. Freshly harvested sweet greens are much more appealing than the wilted leaves frequently found bundled at the produce counter. A delicious hot weather replacement for spinach, chard can be used in many of the same recipes. Plant seeds or seedlings six to eight inches apart in fertile soil. Mulch well and keep watered. Pick individual leaves as they become big enough to use, while leaving the plant to grow in the garden.

Green beans, steamed the day they are picked and served with basil butter, are a summer delight. Try a tepee of pole beans for a continual harvest that starts about two months after the seeds are planted. Bush varieties don’t require support, but they mature their crops all at once, so it’s a good idea to sow small plots every two weeks to space out the harvest. Sow seeds six inches apart and one inch deep. Beans don’t have to be green, either. Purple-podded beans sprout better in cool soil, and yellow wax beans are easier to see against the green leaves. Blue Lake beans are long and round while Italian Romano beans are wide and flat. They’re all delicious.

Tomatoes are America’s most popular home-grown crop, and for good reason. Nothing compares to biting into a warm-from-the-garden, vine-ripened tomato. Savor the perfect ratio of sweet to tangy flavors. Entire volumes have been written offering expert advice on achieving the perfect tomato. Here are three tomato tips specifically aimed at Colorado gardeners. First, pick the warmest, most sheltered spot for your plants. Even varieties that mature early barely have time to ripen, so they will need all the help you can give them. Second, plant deeply, up to the first pair of leaves, but don’t remove those leaves—they’re plant food factories. Research has shown that every leaf counts when it comes to establishing a healthy plant. Third, prevent soil from splattering onto the leaves with a layer of plastic or mulch. Most local tomato diseases are spread by soil-borne spores, and prevention is the best medicine.

Don’t overlook warm-season herbs. Basil is a tender annual that prefers heat and humidity, making it a good companion for the tomato plants. Pinch off any flower heads that form, to focus the plant’s energy on leaf production. Purple-leafed basil adds its rich color to herbal vinegar. Pesto is easier to make using varieties having extra-large leaves. Try the wide assortment of basil flavors available, such as cinnamon, lemon, and lime.

Make your garden reward you. Choose vegetables for their flavor, save on high prices at the market, and above all, grow what you and your family enjoy eating!

Submitted by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/14/07.)

June 4 - 11
Q: I planted several native penstemon flowers in my perennial bed, mulched them with wood chips and watered them three times a week. They all died. I was surprised since they grow so well in nature. What did I do wrong?

A: Penstemons are beautiful perennial flowers that thrive in the Pikes Peak region. Given the right conditions, these flowers look fabulous in low-water, native, and naturalistic landscapes.

Choosing cultivars that are known to grow well in Colorado will help ensure success. Prairie jewel penstemon (Penstemon grandiflorus), which has pink and white flowers, is hardy in USDA zones 3-9 and up to 8,000 feet. For lavender to blue shades try Silverton bluemat penstemon (Penstemon linarioides var. coloradoensis). It grows in zones 4-10, up to 8,000 feet. Similarly, Pikes Peak purple penstemon (Penstemon x mexicali) is hardy to zone 4-8, up to 7,000 feet. These penstemon cultivars are recommended for our region by the Plant Select program, administered by Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University.

Penstemons are virtually care free if given the right location. Penstemons prefer a sandy or gravelly soil, but will tolerate a richer soil if it is well drained. Most prefer dry, sunny conditions, but some cultivars will do well in a moist site and partial shade. Water regularly while the plants become established and then once a week or less.

In general, mulching your beds is a good water-wise practice, but penstemons do grow well in wood mulch. Instead, apply a one inch layer of gravel mulch around your plants. Gravel mulch will keep the soil warm and prevent moisture from evaporating, yet allow good drainage. Penstemons will readily reseed in gravel mulch, but seeds will not germinate in wood mulch.

In general, penstemons have a short life span of three to four years. You can extend their longevity by not over watering and by cutting the seed heads off after they have finished blooming. Leave some seed heads if you want them to self-sow. Established plants can be divided in the spring.

Once your penstemons are established you can look forward to the showy display of flowers each year. Watch for hummingbirds, which are attracted to most tall species.

Submitted by Lisa Bird, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/7/07.)

May 28 - June 4
Q: I’ve heard good things about Buffalograss as an alternative to Kentucky Bluegrass. Will it grow here?

A: Buffalograss has gotten good press recently because of its low water requirements in comparison to other turf grasses. While this grass does well as a turf grass in other areas in the state (including Denver), our growing season is just a little bit too short for it to thrive here. Buffalograss is a warm-season grass that is hardy in zones 5 to 7 that stays dormant and does not green up until soil temperatures warm up to 60 degrees or so, approximately early June. Often, cool season weeds get going much earlier, and heavy weeding is required to keep the planted area looking attractive (and often, the grass still doesn’t get enough growing time to really compete with the weeds). Then the grass goes dormant again when temperatures cool off later in the season.

A better choice for a warm season, low-water-using grass in our area is the native Blue Grama grass, which is hardy in zones 4 to 8. You can see a nice planting of Blue Grama grass at Colorado Springs Utilities’ Xeriscape Demonstration Garden (4855 Mesa Rd.). Although it too is a warm-season grass, it seems to compete better against the weeds and fills in more successfully than Buffalograss here. Although this grass can take some foot traffic, it’s not a good choice for children’s play areas or any area with very high foot traffic. If you have an area of full sun where you want to plant this type of grass, first eliminate the weeds in the planting area with a nondiscriminate weed killer (this is a very important step!), and then wait until late May or early June to put out the seed. It’s very important to lightly water and than roll (or walk over) the seed to get good seed-to-soil contact. Be vigilant about keeping the seed moist until it sprouts, usually 10-to-12 days after planting. Keep weeding the area as needed as the grass is getting established.

Since this grass does not green up until late May, consider planting small bulbs like crocus, miniature daffodils, and species tulips in it in late fall and enjoy the colorful show the next spring. By the time the bulbs foliage starts to die down, the grass will green up.

Q: How about Bermuda Grass, St. Augustine, or Zoysia? Are any of these good choices over Kentucky Bluegrass for high traffic areas is my lawn?

These three are good examples of turf grasses that do well in areas of the country with longer growing seasons, mild winters, and moderate-to-high rainfall (think Texas and Florida). Why? Because they are warm season grasses that are not as able to deal with our short growing season and cold winter temperatures. As with Buffalograss and Blue Grama grass, they won’t green up until temperatures get pretty warm and will go brown again near our first average frost. The plugs advertised in weekend circulars never get a long enough season to fill in!

Submitted by Carey Harrington, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/31/07.)

May 21-28
Q: I keep seeing plants for sale at garden centers with a “Plant Select” label. What is the Plant Select® Program?

A: The Plant Select® Program is a cooperative program administered by Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University in concert with horticulturists and nurseries throughout the Rocky Mountain region and beyond. The purpose of Plant Select® is to seek out, identify and distribute the very best plants for landscapes and gardens from the intermountain region to the high plains.

Several plants are chosen each year that thrive in the sunny, variable conditions of Rocky Mountain gardens. These can be plants that have grown here for years and have not yet attained the popularity they deserve, known as recommended plants. Superior forms or hybrids carefully tested over time are known as originals.

Horticultural experimenters in the region are responsible for making several of our native plants – Phlox, Eriogonum, Penstemon – popular to gardeners worldwide. Plant Select® has laid the groundwork for the increased popularity of yellow and purple hardy ice plants from South Africa and salvias and snow daisies from western Asia in Colorado gardens.

The Pikes Peak region presents many gardening challenges with its short growing season, late spring and early fall frosts, high light intensity, low humidity, minimal rainfall and the occasional hail storm. These highly recommended and proven plants thrive in both the region’s variable winters and hot summers. The collection includes trees, shrubs, vines, grasses, groundcovers and other flowering plants.

When visiting local nurseries or garden shops, Plant Select® plants are identified with a stylized sun logo. Specific retailers who stock these plants are listed on the website as Plant Select® Sources. There are several in the Colorado Springs area. Also listed are a number of mail order catalogs which carry these plants.

To research this user-friendly program on-line, go to plantselect.org. To directly access the 2007 Plant Select® choices and descriptions, enter www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2035.html.

The website presents pictures of every Plant Select® selection since the program’s inception in 1997, often several views. There are detailed, concise descriptions of growing habits and the recommended USDA hardiness zones. Colorado Springs is mainly in hardiness zone 5, although warmer, lower areas of town are in zone 6 and foothill locations are in zone 4. Altitude can make a difference in plant success and that information is also included. Specifics about height and width are presented, as well as the seasonal time of bloom. Each plant’s exposure (full sun, part sun, partial shade) and water requirements are stated. Many of these plants are suitable for the xeriscape garden and work well in Colorado’s lean soil. Each plant’s lifespan is plainly stated, although most are perennials and will return each year to bloom.

There are many Plant Select® Demonstration Gardens throughout the state of Colorado; four are located in Colorado Springs. Gardeners are encouraged and invited to visit these sites and see for themselves what the plants look like in a garden setting and make a note of the ones of particular interest.

CSU Extension Demonstration Garden
305 S. Union Boulevard (East corner of parking lot)

Penrose & Carnegie Library Garden
25 W. Kiowa Street (Between Penrose and Carnegie Library)

Colorado Springs Utilities Demonstration Garden
2855 Mesa Road

Cheyenne Mountain Zoo
4250 Cheyenne Mountain Zoo Road

Submitted by Peg Zimprich, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/24/07.)

May 14 - 21
Q: A friend recommended installing a drip irrigation system with my new landscaping. What is drip irrigation and why should I consider it?

A: Installing drip irrigation for your landscape plantings is excellent advice. Drip irrigation uses a network of plastic pipes and micro tubes (1/4 inch tubing) to provide water under low pressure to plants. The water is applied slowly allowing the water to soak into the ground. This prevents runoff and maintains a desirable balance of air and water in the soil. The high efficiency and low water use of drip irrigation could pay for itself, in reduced expenditures for water, within a year or two of installation.

Sprinkler systems are 50 to 70 percent efficient but drip irrigation frequently exceeds 90 percent efficiency. Drip irrigation systems are so efficient that Colorado Springs Utilities exempted landscapes, using drip irrigation, from water restrictions during drought periods.

If you are renovating your landscape or having a new home landscaped, have the landscaper arrange for a professional to install the irrigation system. Drip irrigation can be used to water bushes, trees, ornamental grasses, flower and vegetable gardens. However, sprinkler heads are needed for lawns and areas where dense ground covers are planted.

A drip irrigation system is easy to design and install. On most properties, a half-inch polyethylene mainline is connected to one of the zones on the irrigation system. The line is snaked through the landscape to avoid straight runs and to allow for expansion and contraction in areas where drip irrigation is desired. The mainline should not be more than 200 feet in length for any irrigation zone. The mainline can be installed above weed fabric and under mulch, or bury in the soil. This keeps the line out of sight, eliminates a trip hazard, and prevents ultraviolet light from degrading the pipe.

Before you install a drip irrigation system and plants, prepare your soil by mixing in a soil amendment. Otherwise, over watering our heavy soils can occur and kill landscape plants.

When your landscape plantings have been made, 1/4 inch tubing can be attached to the mainline by placing an emitter into the mainline, attaching the tubing to the emitter and running the tubing to the base of the plant to be watered. Fastening the tubing with a stake or staple will keep it in place. In-line emitters are made to deliver varying water volumes, from _ gallon to 4 gallons per hour. Thus, a 1-gallon per hour emitter could be used for a clump of ornamental grasses, while a 4-gallon per hour emitter would be used for a tree.

Water demands vary during the growing season and from spring to summer to fall. Adjust the running of the drip irrigation system accordingly to provide the actual amount of water needed by increasing or reducing the frequency and duration of watering.

The purpose of a drip irrigation system is to save water by placing it only where it is needed. The system will reduce water usage by 30 to 50% over conventional sprinklers.

However, reducing water usage is only one of the benefits of drip irrigation. This system provides ideal growing conditions by applying smaller amounts of water over longer periods of time. The slow application of water prevents soil erosion and nutrient runoff, while allowing water to penetrate the soil and get into the root zone. Since water is delivered where it is needed, weed growth is discouraged in non-irrigated areas

One of the nicest features of a drip irrigation system is its adaptability. If you decide to plant a new bush, it can be irrigated by inserting the appropriate emitter into the mainline and directing a micro tube to the base of the plant. Likewise, as plants increase in size, a 1 gallon per hour emitter, for example, can be replaced by a 2 gallon per hour emitter.

Submitted by Ed Carley, Colorado State University Master Gardener. For additional gardening information, refer to Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline (719/636-8921) or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpaso.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/17/07.)

May 7- May 14
Q: I would like to plant some resilient flowers as accents around my house. Any suggestions?

A: Consider planting “annual” flowers in highly visible locations. Annuals are plants which grow and bloom for a single season. Some annuals act like perennials (plants which come back year after year) by reseeding themselves and returning the following year. Other annuals, which originate in more temperate climates, cannot survive our winters and are to be enjoyed for one season only.

Annuals provide color all season long from the last spring frost to the first fall frost, approximately May 2nd through October 1st along the Front Range. Annuals come in a fantastic palette of colors from which to choose. They are an excellent choice for hanging baskets and porch planters. In fact, container gardens are one of the fastest growing segments of gardening, being ideal for people in rental situations, with limited mobility, or limited time to care for a larger landscape. Containers planted with annuals allow you to “try out” a color scheme for a season, easily changing the color and texture of plants year to year.

Annuals can also be planted in your garden. You can select annuals to complement your perennials, tucking a few annuals into your beds to add “instant color” in the spring before your perennials bloom. For those who love to bring the outdoors inside, annuals can also be grown as a cutting garden for indoor bouquets.

Not all annuals are the same; some annuals love sunny areas while others need shade. Annuals which are most reliable for hot, dry exposures include: sunflowers, geraniums, marigolds, cosmos, sweet alyssum, bachelor’s button, and zinnias. Annuals which prefer a richer soil and shaded bed include: impatiens, begonias, coleus, lobelia, and pansies. Check the label at the nursery to make sure you know what growing conditions are best for a given plant.

Annuals require little maintenance. Removing the spent blooms weekly ensures abundant flowers in the future. Annuals planted in containers and hanging baskets should be watered with a liquid fertilizer every two weeks. Those planted in garden beds require less fertilization.

Annuals can be a great way to attract butterflies and hummingbirds into your garden. Some annuals which act as hosts for butterflies include: cosmos, phlox, geranium, verbena, and zinnia. Hummingbirds find geraniums, morning glories, salvia, dianthus, and verbena attractive. To increase the likelihood of attracting butterflies and hummingbirds to your garden plant masses of single color annuals closely together to create bright swaths of color. This is especially important for attracting migrating hummingbirds. To minimize competition between butterflies and hummingbirds plant several separate gardens.

You can see over twelve hundred varieties at the Annual Flower Trials conducted by Colorado State University in Fort Collins. These annuals come from many different plant/seed companies, many of which will become available to growers in future years. The beds of annuals are planted at 1401 Remington Street, west of the Center for the Arts at the southeast corner of the CSU campus. Best viewing time is late July through killing frost. Results from the trial garden can be viewed online at www.flowertrials.colostate.edu.

Submitted by Carolyn Christenson, Colorado State University Master Gardener. For additional, gardening information, refer to the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site, (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline, 636-8921 or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpasoco.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/10/07.)

Apr 30 - May 7
Q: When is the best time to plant my vegetable garden?

A: While we need to wait a bit longer for frost-tender plants, there are many cool season vegetables that withstand frost and cold nights. Here are some crops that you can transplant or direct seed into the garden right now.

Now is a great time to plant all three types of peas: shelling peas, snow peas, and sugar snap peas. Peas prefer cool weather, and need to mature before the summer heat stunts their growth. Pick varieties that mature quickly. Since most peas grow on 2-3 feet tall vines, they will need some support—try some chicken wire or netting stretched along a fence or between two posts. Pick traditional shelling peas when the pods are plump. Enjoy the sweet, fresh peas right in the garden or lightly steam them. Snow peas are the flat, edible pod varieties associated with Asian food. Pick them before the seeds inside develop, and remove their strings before cooking. Introduced in 1979, sugar snap peas are a cross between shelling peas and snow peas. They have round edible pods with fully developed peas inside. Newer snap pea varieties have shorter vines, greater disease resistance, and mature faster than the original.

Onions are another vegetable that withstands freezing temperatures. For fast green onions, plant sets (tiny bulbs) and harvest when there is enough top growth to use. Leave some plant alone to produce full-sized onions later in the season.

Lettuce seedlings should be set out now, as this crop prefers cool, damp spring weather. Loose-leaf and romaine varieties grow quickly. Pick just the outer leaves, or cut the whole top off at soil level, but let the plant continue to grow. You’ll get several harvests without replanting. Discard the plant when it becomes bitter or starts elongating into a flower stalk. Crisp and butterhead lettuces take a bit longer, but are worth the wait. Plant them close together; you can eat the thinnings while you wait for the remaining heads to mature.

Carrots and parsley are two related crops that do well in areas with sandy soil. Make sure to till deeply enough for their long tap roots. Direct seeding is required to grow straight carrots. Keep the tiny seeds damp during the 2-3 week germination period.

Cabbage, broccoli, kale and kohlrabi are related vegetables that do well in El Paso County. You can purchase transplants, grow your own indoors under lights, or sow seeds directly into the garden. While these crops can handle some frost, don’t plant them too early. Three or more days below 40 degrees will cause young plants to stop growing and go directly to premature flowering. These vegetables can also be planted in mid-summer for harvest after the first frosts in the fall.

Planting cool season crops now extends your harvest, avoids many insect pests, and puts fresh vegetables on the table that much sooner.

Submitted by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado State University Master Gardener. For additional, gardening information, refer to the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site, (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline, 636-8921 or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpasoco.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/3/07.)

Apr 23-30
Q: I told my neighbor that I was going to have my lawn aerated, but he said that I should have it power raked instead.  What is the difference between aerating and power raking, and which is preferred?

A: A power rake’s vertical tines bring thatch, dead leaves and even living plants to the lawn’s surface. Then, you can rake up the debris and place it in a compost pile or trash bag. This procedure generally benefits warm season grasses, but not the cool season grasses (bluegrass and fescues) commonly grown in our area. While power can be a helpful tool to use when over seeding your lawn, it does not significantly reduce compaction, improve soil aeration or moisture penetration.

Core aeration is accomplished with a piece of heavy equipment with hollow tines that removes soil plugs and deposits them on the lawn surface. Heavy clay soils are present in most of the Colorado Springs area. General foot traffic will compact these soils and reduce soil air spaces and water penetration. Air and moisture must be available to maintain a healthy root system and an attractive lawn. Though core aeration is destructive, its benefits will be apparent after three or four years of annual treatments.

Thus, core aeration is the preferred procedure. Aerating lawns loosens compacted soils, breaks up thatch, and improves air, water, and nutrient infiltration. Aeration encourages root growth and results in healthier, lusher turf. It also reduces water runoff and puddling on lawns, brings soil microorganisms to the surface and hastens thatch decomposition.

Core aeration may be done any time of the year, but spring and fall aerations are the most beneficial and effective. Once a year is usually sufficient, but lawns which are heavily used by children, pets, or sports activities should be aerated twice a year on an ongoing basis.

Lawn care experts indicate that aerator holes should be 2 to 3 inches deep, 3-inches or less apart and about three quarters of an inch in diameter. If you note that the aeration holes are not close together, ask the individual doing the aerating to go over the area several more times to assure adequate aeration.

You can rent a core aerator and do the job yourself. However, most rental units produce cores 1-inch or less in length. Many individuals, lawn services, and landscapers will core aerate lawns, but few own equipment capable of producing 2 to 3-inch cores. To assure a quality job, select an established business that is a member of the Better Business Bureau and confirm that their equipment can produce soil cores of the desired length.

Do your part to assure that a quality aeration job is done. Moist soil will produce satisfactory cores; dry soils will not. This is why early spring is a good time to have a lawn aerated. When your lawn aeration is scheduled, plan to irrigate your lawn the evening before. It is also helpful to place brightly colored wire stemmed flags next to each irrigation sprinkler head to alert the operator to their location and prevent possible damage to the sprinklers.

When the aeration is completed, the surface of your lawn will be littered with soil cores. There is no need to rake up the plugs. Leave them on the lawn, as the cores will disintegrate in a few weeks. This is also a good time to apply fertilizer and over seed if necessary.

While it is easy to tell when to mow, water or fertilize your lawn, there are no obvious signs that your lawn should be aerated. However, you should make aeration part of your annual lawn maintenance program to stress and keep your grass growing vigorously. This will avoid a major lawn renovation in the future.

Submitted by Ed Carley, Colorado State University Master Gardener. For additional, gardening information, refer to the Colorado State University Cooperative Extension’s web site, (www.ext.colostate.edu); contact the El Paso County Master Gardener Hotline, 636-8921 or e-mail questions or requests for information to CSUmg2@elpasoco.com.

( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/26/07.)

Apr 16-23
Q: What effect will the heavy snows this past winter have on my yard?

A: Drying winds and rapid temperature changes often kill trees, shrubs and perennials over the winter. Snow helps protect plants from both. A moderate snow cover insulates plants from rapid temperature changes and shields plants from dehydrating winds.

However, heavy snow also has its down sides. Heavy snows leads to broken branches and snow mold. When snow piles on top of tree and shrub branches, the snow’s weight may cause the limbs to break. Broken limbs leave open wounds that allow easy access for disease.

Gray snow mold is caused by the fungus Typhula incarnate. Snow mold causes circular “moldy” patches (6- to 12-inches across) in the lawn and flower beds — usually noticeable just as the snow melts and the lawn is exposed. North-facing lawns, shaded lawns and areas where snowplowing or drifting snow created especially deep snow are the most commonly affected parts of the landscape. Under severe conditions, these smaller patches may grow together to form large, matted areas that appear to be dead. Luckily, this disease rarely kills turf in the home lawn.

Here are several gardening tips for spring:

• Prune broken branches out of damaged trees and shrubs as soon as possible. Make a careful, clean cut back to the next living bud along the branch. Use bypass pruners rather than anvil pruners to avoid crushing the branch. Call the extension office for information on proper pruning practices. Seasonal pruning practices do not apply to storm damaged woody plants. If broken branches are too high for you to reach safely, consider hiring a professional arborist.
  
• If you have snow mold in your lawn or perennial flower beds do not apply a fungicide. The best way to speed recovery is to remove dead and matted material by light raking to promote air circulation and drying. Light nitrogen fertilization and core aerating the lawn can also help.
  
• Consider watering your lawn and flower beds. Even though we had early heavy snows in October, March has been drier than normal. Providing extra moisture for plants coming out of dormancy will improve their health, flowering and survival.
  
  Written by Catherine Moravec, extension agent For more information, contact the Colorado Master Gardener Help Desk: 636-8921 or csumg2@elpasoco.com.
  
  ( A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/19/07.)