Archives - 2008

What's blooming this week? (2008 season)

Question of the Week (2008 season)

What's blooming this week? (2008 season)

Oct 7 - 14 (Last one for 2008)

Toadflax
(Linaria sp.)

Appearance: More charmingly known as Butter-and-Eggs, “Toadflax” applies to several similar species. All sport cheerful yellow flowers resembling snapdragons, to which they are related. Two-foot tall clumps of smooth green stems are covered with narrow, pointy leaves two and a half inches long. The flowers appear whenever growing conditions permit. This year, August rains have produced a surge of early fall bloom.

History: Originally imported from Eurasia as ornamentals, the plants quickly escaped cultivation and are featured on many wildflower posters. Unfortunately, Toadflaxes are now officially listed as noxious weeds. As such, it is illegal to grow them or sell their seeds.

How it grows:You will quickly understand the “noxious” designation when you go to kill these weeds. Seeds germinate in spring and quickly grow into small plants with no flowers; most early growth is underground. Taproots penetrate three to ten feet while lateral roots sprout into new plants several yards away. By the time flowers finally appear, control is extremely difficult. Make sure to remove blossoms before seeds form. Try a combination of digging, spraying with an herbicide, and “frustration” (continually removing top growth until the roots give up). Victory may take years of unrelenting effort.

True snapdragons are a welcomed addition to any landscape. Just don’t be fooled by these imposters!

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/7/08.)

Sep 30 - Oct 7

German (aka Tatarian) Statice
(Goniolimon tataricum)

Appearance: Frothy cascades of light lavender flowers tend to evoke spring, rather than fall, but German Statice blooms from late summer until frost. Its low-growing clumps of dark green, leathery leaves survive year-round. Erect flower spikes bears abundant sprays of tiny (less than half inch) tubular blooms encased in silvery sepals that remain ornamental after the flowers fade.

Cultivation: Perennial statice has deep roots, which help it survive with less-than-average watering. Plant in hot, full sun in well-drained soil. Start with seed or purchased plants. Established plants are difficult to move, and do not need dividing.

Landscape use: Statice is best known as a dried flower, but it has a welcome place in the garden as well. Fall-hued leaves appear more brilliant against the pale flowers. Use in a border to fill gaps left by earlier-blooming perennials. Its tidy foliage is ideal in a rock garden. And of course, these everlastings will provide garden interest all winter long.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/30/08.)

Sep 23 - 30

Kinnickinnik (Bearberry)
(Arctostaphylos uva-ursi)

Appearance:Kinnikinnick is an evergreen ground cover with small, shiny dark green leaves that forms dense mats. White or pink spring flowers produce breathtaking red berries in Fall that many browsing animals appreciate. The Algonquian Indians of North America called it kinnikinnick, meaning "mixture," but it is also known as bearberry. Herbalists know it best as uva-ursi and its function as a diuretic has been appreciated since the 13th century.

Cultivation: Kinnikinnick's native range is circumpolar but in North America, it is found from Alaska to New Mexico, to Canada and Greenland. It adorns dry slopes and is known for its drought tolerance. It will tolerate partial shade or even full shade, but flourishes in full sun. Space plants 24" - 30" apart, in a well drained soil, planting at ground level, and water thoroughly. While it is xeric, water to establish the first year or two.

Landscape use:The dark evergreen foliage and bright red berries of kinnikinnick make it the darling of your containers or rock gardens for winter interest. It clings to slopes and hillsides, so use for erosion control.

Contributed by Karen Dayberry, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/23/08.)

Sep 16 - 23

Tomato
(Solanum lycopersicum)

Appearance:Luscious red globes full of sweet and tangy juice—who can resist a fresh, vine-ripened tomato? Small yellow flowers are produced in early summer on sprawling, herbaceous shrubs that range from 3 to 10 feet long. When pollinated, they mature into the much-coveted fruit we all love.

Cultivation: Tomatoes are native to the tropical western hemisphere, where they are perennials. Here, the challenge is getting ripe fruit before it snows. Sow seeds indoors under bright lights in March, or purchase started plants in late spring. Plant outside after all danger of frost is past.

Soil should be moderately fertile and amended with compost. Too much nitrogen will encourage lots of leaves but few fruit. Set transplants in a sheltered spot in full sun. Bury stems up to the first set of leaves, but no deeper. Keep well-watered. Growth is slow until soil temperatures pass 60 degrees. Plastic mulch can help soil warm faster. Protect leaves and developing fruit from soil-borne pathogens by using mulch and providing support for the growing vines.

Landscape use:Tomatoes were historically grown for ornamental, as well as culinary, purposes. The red fruit are attractive both in the landscape and the traditional vegetable garden. Varieties with smaller (determinate) vines do well in large containers, allowing for more flexibility in choosing just the right spot. For more information: www.ext.colostate.edu/mg/files/gardennotes/717-Tomatoes.html

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/16/08.)

Sep 9 - 16

Rabbitbrush, Chamisa
(Chrysothamnus nauseosus)

Appearance: With intense sulfur-yellow flowers covering its gray-green foliage, blooming rabbitbrush demands to be noticed. Flowers last from August through October, with the seed heads providing interest all winter. Branches rising from a woody base form bushes up to 5 feet tall and wide. When not in bloom, the rounded crown and muted foliage impart a subtle, natural appearance to the garden.

Cultivation: Chamisa, as it is also known, is native to arid parts of the West, where it survives up to 9,000 feet. Rabbitbrush prefers alkaline, well-drained soils, but tolerates a wide range of conditions, even a blistering southern exposure. New plants should be deeply watered every few weeks during the first two years to establish a deep root system. From then on, no irrigation is needed. Bloom is on new wood, so prune back lanky plants as needed while they are dormant. Plants grow quickly and live for years.

Landscape use: Rabbitbrush should be planted with other extremely xeric plants. With its vivid flowers, try combining it with Russian sage or natives such as giant sage, purple asters, and grasses.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/9/08.)

Sep 2 - 9

Rose-of-Sharon
(Hibiscus syriacus)

Appearance: Rose-of-Sharon is a medium to large perennial shrub that can also be grown as a small tree. Native to India and Asia, a beautiful trait of this plant are its flowers, available in red, pink, white, purple or combinations of these colors. Some varieties have single flowers; others have double. The flowers resemble those of hollyhock. Blooming begins late summer and can continue until the hard frosts of autumn.

Cultivation: Capable of reaching 15 feet tall and wide. It is hardy in zones 5 to 9. When planting find a spot that has full sun. It prefers moist, well drained soil. This plant leafs out and blooms later than many deciduous shrubs, so be patient in the spring.

Landscape use: Rose-of Sharon adds a romantic aspect to the garden. This spectacular shrub is often used at entryways. It can mask traffic, create areas of privacy, and reduce wind. May be deer resistant but attracts bees and occasional hummingbirds. Side note: The flowers are edible with a mild and nutty flavor.

Contributed by Kerry Peetz, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/2/08.)

Aug 26 - Sep 2

Spiked Speedwell
(Veronica spicata)

Appearance: Veronica spicata grows in 1 1/2-2 foot wide rounded clumps with up to 2 foot tall flower spikes. It has oval, glossy green leaves and bright blue, pink or white flowers in summer. The tall flower spikes gives vertical lift to a garden. This herbaceous perennial blooms in late spring to early summer and continues blooming when deadheaded.

Cultivation: Grow Veronica spicata in average, well-drained soil in a sunny location or partial shade. Avoid too much fertilizer as this will make the plant flop. It's a durable plant and reliably pest-resistant and for our mountain neighbors, grows up to Zone 3. Good drainage is an absolute must! It's suggested to augment the soil with compost at planting time. Mulch to conserve water and keep the soil cool. This long-lived perennial can be divided in spring to rejuvenate it. Veronica spicata will do best with regular water, but be careful not to over water.

Landscape use: While Veronica spicata has tall flower spikes, other species of veronicas are good in rock gardens or as groundcovers. The taller species are good for borders or in perennial beds and offer nice cut flowers. It makes a stunning combination when paired with yarrow or lady's mantle. Veronica spicata tends to be deer-resistant and is attractive to bees, butterflies and birds.

Contributed by Jan Roes, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/26/08.)

Aug 19 - 26

Lamb's Ear
(Stachys byzantine)

Appearance: This pleasurable perennial is a local favorite. It is native to northern Turkey growing wild in their mountain region. The most amazing attribute are its leaves. Your sense of touch is in for a velvety-soft surprise. The furry flexible gray/green leaves are reminiscent of a little lamb’s ear. They flower on strong tall spikes with purple flowers that bloom late spring to early summer.

Cultivation: Lamb’s ear can grow 6-8 inches high and 12 inches wide. They thrive in full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. Planting in well drained soil is a must; do not over water. Sometimes the lower leaves become crunchy and brown, and will look better with some clean up. They grow in zones 4-8. The birds, bees and butterflies pay attention, but the deer are not interested.

Landscape use: Lamb’s ear is an excellent choice for ground cover. They may spread aggressively but can easily be maintained by dead heading after blooming. They’re a beautiful addition to any children’s garden, for the simple enjoyment of petting the leaves.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/19/08.)

Aug 12 - 19

Balloon Flower
(Platycodon grandiflorus)

Appearance: Picture a 1 – 2 feet tall vase-shaped clump of green leaves that are oval with serrated edges. Large buds shaped like inflated balls give Platycodon its common name, balloon flower. These buds open into showy blue, pink or white blossoms shaped like plump, five-pointed stars.

Cultivation: Grow in well-drained garden soil amended with several inches of compost. Mark the spot so you remember where the plants will reappear in late spring. These perennials take several years to look their best, but live for 20 years or more. Because they stay neat and well-behaved, dividing is unnecessary; in fact, the roots hate to be disturbed. Established plants survive some dry periods, but prefer regular watering.

Landscape use: Thriving in sun or partial shade, the informal flowers are especially appropriate for a cottage garden or woodland. Bloom starts in mid-summer, often continuing until frost. Suggested companion plants include sweet William, evening primrose, and daylilies in complementary colors.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/12/08.)

Aug 5 - 12

Bee Balm
(Mondarda spp.)

Appearance: A late summer bloomer, bee balm lights up the garden with a splash of color and spicy fragrance when other flowers are fading in the heat. Irresistible to hummingbirds and butterflies, clusters of spiky flowers in bright red, violet and pink reach heights of two to three feet. Bee balm has dark green foliage that forms bushy, leafy clumps of branching stems. A perennial in the mint family, it is rich in color and fragrance and adds a unique beauty to any garden.

Cultivation: Bee balm is easy to grow and does well in drier, native conditions but will spread rapidly in moist soils. Hardy in USDA growing zones 4-8, it blooms from mid-summer through fall. Removing dead flowers will prolong the bloom time. Mauve-flowered bee balm (Monarda fistulosa) is native to the Rocky Mountain region and grows at higher elevations (above 6,500 feet). Bee balm prefers full sun to partial shade and well-drained soil.

Landscape use: Bee balm produces long lasting flowers that are well suited to a mixed border or herb garden. The mint-scented foliage and colorful flowers are attractive when planted with phlox, veronica and Shasta daisies for long-lasting summer color. A native plant, bee balm is a magnet for hummingbirds and butterflies, but deer tend to avoid browsing on bee balm and other plants in the mint family. For more information on growing Colorado native perennials, go to:
www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/garden/07242.html.

Contributed by Valerie Smith, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/5/08.)

July 29 - August 5

Red Rocks Penstemon
(Penstemon x mexicali 'Red Rocks')

Appearance: An inconspicuous, low-growing mound of evergreen leaves for most of the year, 'Red Rocks' takes center stage in mid-summer, with 18-inch spikes of bright pink, bell-shaped flowers. The first penstemon chosen for inclusion in the Plant Select program, 'Red Rocks' is a cross between a showy Mexican species and a hardy Colorado native. It’s named after the park west of Denver.

Cultivation: Plant in full sun, in lean, well-drained soil. Red rocks penstemon prefers more water than many natives, and belongs in the medium water-use zone. Be careful not to overwater, however. Constantly damp soil will rot the roots, so let things dry out a bit between irrigations. If you want more plants, leave the maturing flowers to form seedpods. A mulch of pea gravel will encourage reseeding.

Landscape use: The pink flowers blend well with plants having grayish foliage, such as lavender and snow-in-summer. Consider pairing the flower spikes with blooms of differing shapes—perhaps Greek yarrow or verbena.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/29/08.)

July 22 - 29

Threadleaf Coreopsis
(Coreopsis verticillata)

Appearance: Threadleaf coreopsis is covered by golden-yellow, daisy-like flowers, blooming midsummer into fall. Koris and opsis means “bug-like” in Greek and refers to the tiny, black seeds that are produced if the spent heads are not removed. Threadleaf coreopsis grows approximately 2-3 feet tall and 1-2 feet wide. The cultivar ‘Moonbeam' is pale yellow and 'Zagreb' golden yellow, both growing 1-2 feet high.

Cultivation: A member of the sunflower family, coreopsis is a long-lived perennial and tolerant of poor, dry soils. They perform best in sunny, well-drained sites of low to moderate fertility. Removing spent flowers may encourage a secondary bloom. Where soils are moist and sandy, Threadleaf coreopsis may spread invasively.

Landscape use: Threadleaf coreopsis grows well in zones 3-9. The dark green ferny foliage is a nice contrast with the yellow flowers and is perfect for the front of the garden or naturalizing in a meadow. Try planting it among silver lamb’s ear or in front of shasta daisy or fall blooming mums.

Contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/22/08.)

July 15 - 22

Moss Rose
(Portulaca spp.)

Appearance: This pretty little annual qualifies as one of those ‘tough plants for tough places.’ It’s a cheerful looking plant that blooms continuously and needs no deadheading. Fleshy, sage green leaves hug the ground; flower forms can be single, simple, petals, but double and even triple flowers can easily be found in a rainbow of colors that close up at night.

Cultivation: Plant in full sun. Moss rose can be sown from seed directly into the ground after all danger of frost has passed. A popular ornamental ground cover, it’s available in most garden centers. It will bloom all summer and die at the first frost, but don’t be surprised if it self seeds and shows up again the next summer.

Landscape use: Moss rose grows well in difficult garden sites and will thrive even in dry, sandy soils. It’s a good container plant and will be forgiving if you occasionally forget to water it. Moss rose can also be planted in rock gardens, on slopes and borders. A mass of one shade is more effective than a random mix of color. In borders, plant with other drought tolerant annuals: cleome in the back of the border, periwinkle, bachelor button and dusty miller in the center.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/15/08.)

July 8 - 15

Lavender Cotton
(Santolina chamaecyparissus)

Appearance: Lavender cotton (Santolina chamaecyparissus) grows in soft, textured mounds of gray-green, wooly foliage reaching heights of 12” – 18” and 12” – 18” diameter. Yellow flowers appear in late June to July, a stunning contrast to the small, subdued leaves. The aromatic foliage persists into Fall and Winter adding interest to the seasonal garden.

Cultivation: Grow lavender cotton in dry, infertile, well-drained soil in full sun. This heat-loving Mediterranean plant can establish up to 8,000’ in Colorado and tolerates wind and alkaline soils. It is hardy to USDA Zones 4-8 and requires minimal water once established. To keep it looking tidy, sheer back annually after flowering.

Landscape use: Lavender cotton may be deer resistant. It is a perfect addition to rock gardens or desert type landscapes and combines beautifully with the many types of penstemons such as the Rocky Mountain penstemon (Penstemon strictus). A related species, green lavender cotton (Santolina virens), has bright green leaves with a softer appearance, but may not be quite as hardy as its gray-green cousin.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/8/08.)

July 1 - 8

Foxglove 'Spanish Peaks'
(Digitalis thapsi)

Appearance: With one- to two-foot spikes of raspberry-pink flowers over a tidy mat of fuzzy foliage, perennial foxglove ‘Spanish Peaks’ was named a Plant Select winner in 1999. This means it is specifically recommended for Colorado gardens, doing well in our arid and unpredictable climate. Although attractive to bees and hummingbirds, 'Spanish Peaks' is disliked by rabbits and deer, probably due to its poisonous foliage. (The drug digitalis comes from plants in this genus.) As the cultivar’s name suggests, this foxglove is native to Spain.

Cultivation: Grow in full sun to partial shade. While preferring organic loam, 'Spanish Peaks' will tolerate clay. Be careful to let soil dry out a little between deep waterings. Deadhead to encourage repeat bloom, but leave the last flower stalks to self-sow in the garden.

Landscape use: Foxglove lends the landscape a woodland feel, or is wonderful in a cottage garden. Try companion plants that share cultivation requirements and bloom time, such as various campanulas, violas and columbines.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/1/08.)

June 17 - 24

Catnip
(Nepeta cataria)

Appearance: Nepeta is a genus of about 250 species of flowering plants. This herb resembles mint in appearance and stands 2-3 feet tall. They have sturdy stems with opposite heart-shaped, green to grayish-green leaves. The flowers are white, blue, pink or lilac and occur in several clusters toward the tip of the stems. The flowers are tubular and spotted with tiny purple dots.

Cultivation: The genus is native to Europe, Asia and Africa. It is now common in North America as a weed. Most of the species are invasive, herbaceous perennial plants and grow at almost any elevation. While drought tolerant, they will tolerate regular moisture if soil is well drained. Sheer by half after blossoms fade to encourage rebloom.

Landscape use: Nepeta can be grown in containers. The plant needs to be deadheaded before seeds are produced. N. cataria 'Citriodora' looks exactly like true catnip, but has the scent of lemons. Nepeta grandiflora (Giant catmint or Caucasus catmint) is lusher than true catnip, and has dark green leaves and dark blue, almost purple flowers.

Contributed by Nadine Salmons, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/17/08.)

June 10 - 17

Peony
(Paeonia officinalis)

Appearance: Your sense of sight will relish in the beauty of these six-inch round diameter blooms, with flowers so heavy they flop over when not supported. Your sense of smell is also in for a treat, as their scent is sweetly intoxicating. Colors are white, pink, red, maroon, and more. After the beautiful blooms are spent the deep green foliage makes a winsome backdrop for other plants in your garden.

Cultivation: Peonies do well in full sun or light shade giving them enough room to grow two feet to four feet tall and wide. They prefer regular water and rich, loamy, well drained soil but will tolerate heavier clay soils. Best planted in the fall or early spring, the roots should be no deeper than one inch below the soil. Ants are attracted to the nectar, but will neither help nor harm the buds. Deer rarely show interest.

Landscape use: Peonies are famous for longevity and provide choice cut flowers. For optimal flowering they should be placed in permanent locations and fertilized after they flower and again in the fall. Although the initial investment is a little pricey, the life span of this perennial plant makes it a smart purchase and the treat to your senses is certain to outweigh the cost.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/10/08.)

June 3 - 10

Lupine
(Lupinus spp.)

Appearance: Lupine is an early spring perennial that produces towers of flowers in shades of blue, violet, pink, yellow and white. Spikes of pea-like flowers rise 12” to 30” from bushy clumps of attractive, palmately compound leaves. Lupines have a long flowering period and are one of the most eye-catching flowering plants. A wildflower native to the Rocky Mountain Region, lupine are ideal for a more natural, less formal garden.

Cultivation: Plant by seed in early spring or late fall for spring bloom. Lupine will be healthy and happy in a part-sun to part-shade setting with moderately organic, well-drained soil. Deadheading will prolong the bloom and prevent reseeding. After the initial flowering, trim back to 6” or to the green foliage, and the plant may re-bloom. Cutting back spent blooms may also control aphids, which can be a nuisance insect. Lupine is an excellent choice for higher elevations, zones 4 to 6 and blooms from May to July.

Landscape use: Lupine adds elegance to early summer borders and meadow plantings. The flower spikes are a showy cut flower in arrangements. The ‘Russell Hybrids’ offer a wide variety of solid and bi-colors and the ‘Gallery Series’ are dwarf compact plants. Lupine provides bold splashes of color in informal plantings, is a good accent with shrubs and beautiful combined with columbines (Aquilegia). Try lupine with a grouping of bellflowers (Campanula), perennial foxglove (Digitalis grandiflora) and coral bells (Heuchera). Some species of lupine are toxic to livestock and deer tend to avoid browsing. For more information on growing Colorado wildflowers, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/garden/07233.html.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/3/08.)

May 29 - June 5

Whirling Butterflies
(Gaura lindheimeri)

Appearance: The tall, whispy stems of Gaura dance in the slightest wind providing movement and color to the garden. Slender spikes grow 3’-4’ tall above a small clump that reaches 30” wide. These stems will be laden with white or pink butterfly-shaped flowers throughout the hottest days of summer.

Cultivation: Gaura prefers a lean well-drained soil but will also grow in clay. It loves to snuggle by a wall or rocks, and does well in the heat of full sun. It is drought tolerant once established. Pinch back the stems in the spring to thicken blooms. While hardy for Zones 5-10, avoid planting in the fall so that it can establish before winter. A protected location is best. Gaura will self sow but the clump can also be divided in the spring.

Landscape use: Gaura is perfect to use in mass as a “screen curtain”, slightly hiding something just beyond. It is tall enough to create a nice border and will combine beautifully with larger, heavier blooms and substantial foliage since it is airy. It is rabbit resistant and provides a nectar source for butterflies.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/29/08.)

May 22-29

Apache Plume
(Fallugia paradoxa)

Appearance: Apache plume is one of our showiest native shrubs, blooming all summer with anemone-like, pale pink to white flowers. The flowers bloom from late spring to early fall then give rise to feathery, smoky pink seed heads lasting throughout the winter. The shrub’s year round interest, low-maintenance and hardiness earn it a place in the home garden. It grows to about 6’ tall and 4’ wide.

Cultivation: It is a xeric shrub indigenous to the southwest, and prefers low water but will tolerate moderate watering. For the best performance, don’t plant it in an irrigated yard. Apache Plume is extremely drought tolerant when established and hardy to about 7,000 feet and USDA zones 4 to 8. It thrives in lean, well-drained soil, but will grow in sandy or clayey soils. Apache Plume likes a dry spot with a south or west exposure, and full sun to partial shade. It is rarely browsed by deer.

Landscape use: Apache Plume works well in natural areas and can be used as a fine, lacy screen in landscape borders. An excellent plant for erosion control due to the expansive root system, the shrub is striking when planted with prairie grasses like Little Blue Stem (Schizachyrium), junipers and pines. The natural form is contained and well shaped with graceful, arching stems and large, showy flowers. Apache Plume is a featured plant in the 2002 Plant Select program.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/22/08.)

May 15-22

Ice Plant
(Delosperma spp.)

Appearance: With its long-lasting, brilliant daisy-like flowers, ice plant, or Delosperma spp. garners attention as the prima dona of xeriscape gardens. Originally from South Africa, this low-growing perennial ground cover is a vigorous spreader, forming a dense mat, with full sun and well-drained soil. Tiny leaf hairs that sparkle like ice crystals give this succulent its common name.

Cultivation: Pink and purple varieties are hardy to 6,500 feet, and bloom most of the growing season, a boon to Colorado Spring gardeners. The yellow D. nubigenum, blooms earlier, and is hardy to 7,500 feet. Although the flamboyant fuchsia D. cooperi is widely available, CSU Extension recommends the salmon-pink “Mesa Verde” and the blazing scarlet “Red Mountain” varieties for its Plant Select Program.

Landscape use: Good for tough areas like hillsides or narrow strips, ice plants need little supplemental water and appreciate a gravel mulch to keep the crowns dry. However, they cannot be stepped on, and may not be deer and rabbit-resistant. Complement ice plants with other low-growing xeric plants, like the white Achillea ageratifolia.

Contributed by Brook E. Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/15/08.)

May 8-15

Lettuce
(Lactuca sativa)

Appearance: Lettuce is a temperate annual or biennial plant and most often grown as a leaf vegetable. The lettuce plant has a short stem initially (a rosette growth habit), but when it blooms the stem lengthens and branches, and it produces many flower heads that look like those of dandelions, but smaller. There are six commonly recognized cultivars: Butterhead, Chinese lettuce, Crisphead, Looseleaf, Romaine [Cos] and Summer Crisp.

Cultivation: Lettuce seeds are best sown in April as well as late July. It likes sun but not a lot of heat which will make it bolt and get bitter. To harvest lettuce throughout the growing season sow 14 days apart. It is adaptable to containers. Looseleaf lettuce seems to do best in Colorado such as Black Seeded Simpson and Cos. Some lettuces (especially iceberg) have been specifically bred to remove the bitterness from their leaves.

Landscape use: The lettuce that we see today actually started out as a weed around the Mediterranean basin. Served in dishes for more than 4500 years, lettuce was introduced by Christopher Columbus to the new world. For additional information about leafy vegetables, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/Garden/07608.html.

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/8/08.)

May 1-8

Ajuga
(Ajuga reptans)

Appearance: A member of the mint family, Ajuga, also called Carpet Bugelweed, is a semi-evergreen perennial that produces mats of rosette shaped foliage. It’s a highly adaptable, low growing ground cover with attractive burgundy or tricolor foliage. Blooming in early spring, the most common flower color is deep blue but there are purple, pink and white cultivars available. Foliage grows 4” high with upright clusters of blue flowers reaching 6 to 8 inches.

Cultivation: Grows in full sun to full shade. An easy, low maintenance plant, it’s not truly xeric as it requires moderate watering. It will flourish in almost any soil with good drainage. Ajuga is disease free and will grow well as long as soil isn’t placed directly on top of the plant. This plant thrives in zones 3 to 9 and can be grown to 8,000 feet in Colorado.

Landscape use: Excellent in rock gardens and as a border plant. The fibrous root system can become invasive but edging material will keep it within bounds. Planting in clusters on a slope or hillside helps prevent soil erosion.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/1/08.)

Apr 24 - May 1

Pasque Flower
(Pulsatilla vulgaris)

Appearance: This furry plant in the Buttercup Family is one of the first to show its pretty face above the snow. If you like to hike, you may see Pasque Flower in very early spring in many of our local parks. The 2 inch flowers range in color from reddish purple to blue with bright yellow centers. Plants are 9-12” tall, and have a 6-10” spread. The silky, deeply cut leaves form a tuft at ground-level. After blooming, Pasque Flower forms a very attractive, feathery seed head that lasts into early summer.

Cultivation: Pasque Flower requires excellent drainage, particularly in winter. Plants will grow in full sun or partial shade in Zones 4-8 and at elevations up to 9,500 feet in Colorado. Depending on winter moisture, water needs are low to moderate. This is a long-lived plant that grows from a perennial taproot.

Landscape use: Pasque Flower would do well in most rock garden settings. It grows naturally in grassy meadows, and treed areas. Because the plants may go dormant in summer, have other summer-blooming plants around it. Seeds are wind-dispersed, so consider if that's a problem in your garden. Pasque Flower is a lovely, spring-blooming plant, but one word of caution: it may cause skin irritation if handled.

Contributed by Jan Roes, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/24/08.)

Apr 17-24

Forsythia
(Forsythia)

Appearance: Forsythia’s bright yellow flowers delight us in early spring, tempting children to pinch their bell-shaped blossoms and signaling gardeners to renew their outdoor activities. Vibrant green leaves appear after the ephemeral blooms on this medium-sized, deciduous shrub which originated from China.

Cultivation: Hardy to 7,500 feet, forsythia thrives in full sun or partial shade, as long as they have enough water. A spring bloomer, it is best to plant forsythia in the fall. Enjoy forsythia’s sunny flowers earlier by placing cut stems in a tall vase of water a couple weeks before they bloom outdoors. CSU Extension recommends these cold-hardy cultivars: “Meadowlark,” “Northern Gold,” or “Northern Sun.”

Landscape use: You will be rewarded with a vigorous, disease-resistant shrub if you can plant forsythia as a specimen shrub in a free-standing, showy location that allows them to flaunt their fountain-like habit. Mature plants benefit from rejuvenation by pruning older, woody canes. For more information about pruning shrubs in your yard, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1713.html.

Contributed by Brooke E. Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/17/08.)

Apr 10-17

Crocus
(Crocus vernus)

Appearance: A welcome sight for the winter-weary, the crocus is one of the first signs of spring. Crocus may begin blooming around late March and will continue blooming despite our spring snowstorms. They come in golden yellow, purple, white, and white with lavender and purple stripes. Mature Crocus measure about 6 inches in height.

Cultivation: Crocuses prefer full sun, but will tolerate partial shade. Plant them during the fall, in well-drained soil and about three inches deep and four inches apart. After they have bloomed, remove the faded flowers if desired, but leave the foliage alone until it turns yellow, as it provides the bulbs with nourishment for the following year's flowers. Unfortunately, deer love crocus as well, so if you have this problem you might want to think twice about planting these beauties.

Landscape use: Plant crocuses where you can easily see and enjoy them, such as along garden paths, driveways, and sidewalks. They are particularly attractive when planted in bunches near rocks or shrubs or naturalized in lawns. Within just a few years they will multiply into clumps of up to 6 inches across. For more help on selecting spring, summer and fall blooming bulbs for your garden, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1011.html.

Contributed by Kathy Heller, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/10/08.)

Apr 3-10

Myrtle Spurge
(Euphorbia myrsinites)

Appearance: Myrtle Spurge, also known as donkeytail spurge, is a highly invasive ornamental plant that is popular in xeriscapes and rock gardens in residential areas in Colorado. This plant is rapidly expanding into sensitive ecosystems, displacing native vegetation and reducing forage for wildlife. The same attributes that make it appealing to El Paso gardeners (drought tolerance, hardiness, and tolerance of poor soils) also make it a successful competitor with native species.

Cultivation: This low-growing perennial has trailing stems of fleshy blue-green alternate leaves. Flowers are inconspicuous, surrounded by yellow-green flower-like bracts that appear from March to May. The myrtle spurge has a height of 9" and can spread to 18".

Landscape use: Myrtle spurge does well in poor, rocky, or sandy soils and thrives in full sun. It is hardy throughout the county. This plant reproduces only by seed and is capable of projecting seeds up to 15 feet. The myrtle spurge is a Colorado A List Species noxious weed, which requires eradication on all lands County, State, Federal, or Private. This plant exudes toxic, milky latex, which can cause severe skin irritations, so take necessary precautions by wearing rubber gloves and covering your skin when removing the plant. To read more about noxious weeds in Colorado, go to: www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/2103.html.

Contributed by Jack Case, Colorado Master Gardener Apprentice. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

Photo contributed by Joan Nusbaum, Colorado Master Gardener

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/3/08.)

Question of the Week (2008 season)

Nov 4 - 11 (Last one for 2008)

Q: The holiday season is nearly here, and one perennial question asked by anyone who has a gardener in his or her life is "What should I get for my favorite gardener?

A: Local garden centers are filled with terrific gift possibilities, and their staff members are willing to help with ideas as well. All of the items mentioned here are stocked by at least one local garden center, and most of them are stocked by several.

Those new to gardening usually have not yet invested in quality tools. Good tools can make gardening tasks more enjoyable. A good garden fork is essential for preparing new beds and amending established ones.

If your gardener has been working with a cheap hand trowel, consider picking up the popular hori knife for them. Or if they tend to have wrist pain, get them one of the nifty Radius ergonomic hand diggers.

A good set of pruners is essential for any gardener who has pruning of woody plants to do. Felco is a respected brand, carried by Rick's Garden Center, on west Uinta at 18th Street. Ricks carries the Felco #6 for smaller hands.

New gardeners will find that having their hand tools together and readily available makes them more likely to use their tools. Check out the many tool organizers, tool belts, and bags that are available.

Gardeners who have several seasons under their belt probably already have favorite quality tools. Instead of tools, these gardeners may appreciate books with information appropriate to growing in our area. (And of course, Growing Points: The Wit & Wisdom of the El Paso County Master Gardeners is a great choice! See our web site at http://elpasoco.colorado.edu/horticulture for more information.)

Another possibility for the experienced gardener is a relative newcomer to the garden gadget world - the colorful plastic "trug." Both Rick's Garden Center and Good Earth Garden Center have a wide selection of these flexible buckets in sizes from 4 gallons up to 15 gallons. They are handy for innumerable gardening (and other) tasks - from hauling new plants around to holding a bit of mulch or soil amendment.

Here are some possibilities for gardeners of any experience level. Good quality watering tools can help gardeners water wisely. The staff at Good Earth Garden Center, at 1330 N. Walnut, is particularly enthusiastic about their heavy-duty Dramm hose-end watering attachments. They come in pretty colors, most have multiple spray patterns to choose from, and they have shut off dials to help gardeners water efficiently. For gardeners who water containers by hand, an Oxo Good Grips watering can would be a wise purchase.

Another important tool for watering efficiently is a rain gauge. Small ones can be had for free at the Colorado Springs Utilities Xeriscape Demonstration Garden, and larger, fancier ones can be found at nearly any garden center.

Yard ornaments and hats are fun gifts gardeners will appreciate. Gardeners need good gloves and footwear, but these are best purchased by the gardeners themselves. In that case, a gift certificate is the best way to handle these types of items.

Contributed by Carey Harrington, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 11/4/08.)

Oct 28 - Nov 4

Q: When should I call the City Forestry department about the tree in my front yard?

A: It is the responsibility of the Colorado Springs City Forestry department to maintain trees if they are in the right-of-way. Sometimes these are called “street trees” because they are very close to the street, or in between the street and sidewalk.

City Forestry does not handle any plants that are on private property. Nor will they inspect a tree that is in your back yard.

“The City budget is tight,” notes Paul Smith, a City Forester, “so we mostly respond to calls about trees.” The phone number is 386-5942. It may be too late in the year for them to determine if a tree’s health is suffering, but keep this number handy for when you see tree limbs in a street after a storm.

The Colorado Springs City forestry department maintains about 125,000 trees in the rights of way, parks and medians. They monitor the health of trees in regional parks.

Very often, street trees in a cul de sac are not situated within the public right-of-way, according to how the city measures the street. Their web site has detailed information at www.SpringsGov.com then click on “Parks and Recreation” then select “Forestry.”

“We are seeing decline in a lot of trees on rights-of way,” said Smith, expressing concern about this year’s drought. He attributes this to property owners continuing to water less since the water restrictions of 2002 and 2003. Trees that are drought stressed are more susceptible to damage from problems that are normally minor, like aphids.

“One of the best things you can do for your trees,” Smith adds, “is to water them thoroughly.” He says that most lawn sprinklers do not penetrate the soil deeply enough to reach tree roots. He recommends letting your hose drip slowly for an hour in the root zone, not just at the base of the trunk. Using soaker hose would be a good way to do that, on a monthly basis.

If you have a tree in your yard that is showing signs of stress, Colorado State University recommends you call a licensed arborist. Arborists can help with storm-damaged limbs or tree removal.

If you can manage tree-trimming or clean up yourself, you can either bundle the limbs for pick up by most trash companies, or bring the limbs to mulching sites. There is free yard waste collection every Saturday, weather permitting, from 8-4 at Rocky Top Resources, 1755 E. Las Vegas. Their phone number is 520-7878 or get more information at their web site, www.rockytop.us/information.html.

From May to mid-September, residents on the north side of town can bring their slash – tree limbs and brush – to the Black Forest Slash-Mulch Program, on the corner of Shoup and Herring Roads. More information is available at www.bfslash.org. Both programs are a service of El Paso County’s Solid Waste Management Department, and request a donation of non-perishable food items for Care and Share.

Colorado Springs’ New Home Tree Ordinance states that new home owners “may be eligible to obtain a certificate toward the purchase of a tree” for planting in rights of way and parkways. Tree certificates may also be available for established properties, through the Street Tree Planting Program.

Colorado Springs Forestry department is involved in the “Tree City USA” program. They have a brochure available, “Trees for Colorado Springs,” which describes trees that are “suitable” and “unsuitable” as street trees. Green ash and Bur oak stand out in the “large tree” category. Tatarian maple and Goldenrain tree are notable, shorter trees from their list.

Although trees greatly add to the beauty of our city, they are a valuable asset to our environment. They slow our strong winds, and provide shade, which reduces watering requirements, and cools air and ground temperatures. Let’s take care of the trees we have, and chose new trees carefully.

Contributed by Brook E. Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/28/08.)

Oct 21 - 28

Q: El Paso County government gives funding to the CSU Extension office. What is that?

A: Extension offices, a branch of the Colorado State University, help farmers, right? Not so fast.

In a traditional Extension office, you’d expect to find experts in farming, canning, and 4-H. But in a county with developed land like El Paso County, there’s a different story.

Acting as the main channel of reliable information from experts at Colorado State University, CSU Extension programs have evolved to meet the needs of today’s citizens. A perfect example is the Colorado Master Gardener (CMG) program.

Your local CSU Extension office has one of the best Master Gardener programs in Colorado.

Master Gardeners are volunteers who receive extensive training from CSU educators. Their purpose it to provide free research-based information to local residents.

Master Gardeners do much more than talk about growing pretty flowers.

Instead, each CMG donates about 65 hours per year on four important issues:

First, volunteers promote water conservation. They teach water-wise landscaping practices.
Second, they help people grow their own fruits and vegetables, saving grocery money while supplying fresher food.
Third, they help solve insect and disease issues responsibly. This reduces the amount of pesticides used.
Fourth, they encourage attractive landscapes suited to our region. This improves property values in our cities.

They help residents use sound yard and garden care practices.

And when plant problems arise, the CMG Help Desk is an important first place to get answers.

Residents from all over El Paso County contact the CMG Help Desk in the Extension office. They walk in with samples of bugs, plant problems and specimens they need to have identified. CMGs addressed over 5,000 issues at the Help Desk in 2008.

CMGs also teach yard and garden classes, staff information booths, and write advice columns for the local newspaper. Furthermore, they develop local gardens, assist school groups, and work with youth. The Master Gardeners of El Paso County directly assist 9,000 people each year.

Master Gardeners have a great passion for helping the community, as well as for plants. Rather than doing the work, CMGs help people take action. Specifically, this year El Paso County CMGs:

Coached new Habitat for Humanity homeowners with landscaping advice
Transformed a parking lot at a local Goodwill
Installed a sensory garden for disabled residents
Helped Partners in Housing residents grow fresh vegetables for the first time
Taught disadvantaged schoolchildren about plants

One of their biggest roles is to help residents solve landscape problems responsibly.

Let’s say a homeowner notices a valuable tree turning brown, and bring a branch into the CMG Help Desk. A Master Gardener will help them find the true cause of the damage.

Once the cause is found, the volunteers provide a range of safe and effective options to fix the problem, avoiding the temptation to use unfamiliar garden chemicals in a shotgun approach, hoping something will work.

During this process, Master Gardeners use only trustworthy guidance from Colorado State University.

Sometimes, the gardening problem requires professional expertise. When a problem is too big for the gardener to manage, CMGs refer them to local businesses, like arborists, landscapers, and nurseries.

Master Gardeners also cooperate with local nurseries by staffing information booths that help shoppers.

The Master Gardener program provides these services at a very low cost to tax payers. Only one paid staff member supervises 140 volunteers. The county government contributes only one fourth of this staff member’s salary, the rest is contributed by Colorado State University.

All residents in El Paso County benefit from the efforts of our local CMGs, even non-gardeners. Our beautiful city benefits from healthy trees and attractive gardens, with reduced use of yard chemicals and landscape water.

Contributed by Catherine Moravec, Horticulture Agent. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/21/08.)

Oct 14 - 21

Q: With winter coming should I prune my shrubs and trees now?

A: The coming weeks are a great time to prune some plants. Let’s talk about trees first. Pruning trees now makes them stronger and protects trees against winter storm damage.

After leaves have fallen, the basic tree shape is easy to see and you may spot some problems that need corrective pruning, rubbing branches, or one that looks out of place.

Start by removing branches that are completely dead. Then, consider removing branches that form narrow ‘V’ crotches, growing too close to the trunk. These are weaker than branches with a wide ‘V’ crotch.

Do not cut a branch off flush with the trunk! Instead, look for a series of wrinkles or ridges near the branch union, and cut just outside this natural branch ‘collar.’ Also remove branches that rub against each other or your house.

CSU Extension does not recommend using a wound dressing. Scientific research has shown it of no benefit to the tree and can even harbor disease.

Trim broken branches, and check for branches with heavy disease or insect infestation. By removing those branches now, you will improve the health of the tree.

Most large or overgrown shrubs can be pruned now. Thinning a plant means removing a branch at its point of origin. Thinning at the shrub’s trunk will give it a more open look, and let light in.

If a shrub is just a clump of branches coming out of the ground, like raspberries, these branches are called canes. It is important to remove old canes now, as insects and diseases often over-winter in dead canes.

Shearing, or just trimming all the ends off, stimulates new growth only at the tips of the branches. Shrubs sheared with motorized trimmers will eventually have few leaves on the inside of the shape, making it harder and harder to control the size. If too much is then cut off after shaping, the shrub will have leafless, dead spots.

Spring flowering shrubs, like forsythia and lilac, should not be trimmed in fall as they have already formed their flowers for next year. Even though time consuming, CSU Extension studies have shown it is best to wait until just after their bloom has finished in the spring to trim spring flowering shrubs.

However, you can safely remove any dead, dying or diseased branches or canes. For example lilacs are prone to oystershell scale and by removing old, diseased canes you’ll have a healthier plant.

Do not prune roses in the fall. Rose pruning is best done in late April or early May.

The goal of fall pruning is to maintain plant health. Use tools with sharp, clean edges and keep them disinfected by dipping it in a 10:1 water and bleach solution. Disinfecting wipes are a handy way to sanitize blades each time you make a cut.

First time pruning can be daunting, but the benefits are sturdier and healthier plants.

Contributed by Eileen Tully and Brook Mark, Colorado Master Gardeners. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/14/08.)

Oct 7 - 14

Q: My neighbors, still bustling around their yard, said they are “putting the garden to bed.” Can you tell me what this means?

A: There are many things to do to prepare your garden for winter. By taking a few extra steps now, you can give your plants the best chance for vigorous growth next spring.

Fall gives us an opportunity to enrich our soils with leaves gathered from our yards, one of the best things you can do to improve the poor soils we have here in Colorado Springs.

Once our vegetable bed has stopped producing, we can
- Remove dead plants or chop them up and shovel them into the soil
- Till the soil, either by hand or with a power tool
- Work amendments into the soil with any of various nutrients: manure tea, compost, manure, bone meal, blood meal
- Top of the soil with a mulch layer, using organic materials, such as weed-free straw, grass hay, dried leaves or grass clippings

Note that experts recommend removing leaf litter from around aspen trees, as their leaves might reintroduce over-wintering bacteria. The same holds true for other plants, like iris. Cleaning up iris leaves discourages bacteria.

Mulching the beds is an easy way to compost right where plants will grow next year. It is a great way to add nutrients to the soil and keep moisture in the soil, encouraging healthy microbes and worms.

One form of mulch-to-compost is called “lasagna gardening” where you layer the beds with newspapers, a little soil, and material you might normally compost. Winter precipitation will break down the materials into compost that can be turned under in the spring.

If we have a dry winter, add a little water to the mulched beds monthly, when temperatures are above 40 degrees, and you are doing your winter-watering of trees, shrubs and perennial flowers.

For flower beds, consider leaving some plants standing for winter interest. Others can be cut down, transplanted, or divided and shared with your neighbors.

- Weed the beds one last time
- Add soil amendments such as compost
- Mulch to keep moisture available for plant roots

Now is the time to plant your spring blooming bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, crocuses or hyacinths. Be sure to lift tender, summer bulbs such as dahlias and gladiolus to dry and store for the winter.

Other fall chores can include:
- Turning the present compost pile and starting the next one
- Clean, sharpen and oil gardening tools
- Aerate and fertilize the lawn
- Drain hoses and sprinkler systems

If you would like to move a bedding plant indoors for the winter, transplant it into fresh soil in a pot, and treat it for insects. If you bring in your herbs, you will have a great source for fresh flavors all winter. Rosemary, in particular, is tender and will not hold up to our bitter winter weather. Geraniums do very well as house plants, and will bloom profusely in a sunny window.

This is also a great time to put in any new beds you want for spring planting. This way, there’s no delay when spring finally rolls around. You can get right to the gardening again!

For those long winter nights, collect all your nursery catalogs together to make your plans for next year, and dream about the possibilities!

Contributed by Karen Dayberry, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 10/7/08.)

Sep 30 - Oct 7

Q: I’ve been thinking about planting a tree in my back yard…what kind to you recommend?

A:Fall is a great time to plant trees, and many nurseries offer a discount this late in the season. Trees add significant value to our properties in Colorado, so it is important to carefully consider what kind of tree will be best for your location.

The first thing to do is walk around your property and ask yourself questions. How tall do you want your tree to grow? Taller trees cast more shade, and take longer to mature, but may block a desirable view at full height. Shorter trees can help provide privacy, and wildlife benefits from providing a variety of canopy heights.

How much sun will your tree get? Where will the shade fall? Evergreens give year-round color, but also give year-round shade.

How much water will your tree get? Drip irrigation is a great way to efficiently get water to a tree, a boon in our dry climate. Will it be exposed to a lot of wind? Our desiccating winds wreak havoc on broadleaf and exposed trees.

Next, figure out which trees might work for the spot you’ve chosen. Now you get to do a bit of homework. Look around your neighborhood, and note which trees look the healthiest. Research the Colorado State University Extension horticulture web site at www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/garden/pubgard_all.html, where you will find information about tree height and water requirements.

In general, slower-growing trees are more disease resistant, so giving your new tree time to grow will pay off in better health. If growing time is limited, weigh the expense of buying a larger sapling.

We are fortunate to have several reputable nurseries and greenhouses around town. Their employees are helpful, experienced and knowledgeable. In fall, many of them offer a small discount, so it is a good time to buy, but the selection may be more limited than in spring.

Mark Phelan of Phelan Gardens, on Austin Bluffs, says that fruit trees have been extremely popular this year. Our current economy seems to encourage more food-producing plants and trees in our own yards.

Phelan cautions clients to ensure trees are hardy in our climate zone - most of El Paso County is in zone 4 or 5. Depending on when our spring freezes happen, trees may produce no fruit some years. For example, we were hit with a freeze just as our apple trees were blossoming this spring, so apple trees all along the front range have no fruit this year.

Phelan also recommends 'Autumn Blaze' maple for fall color or 'Purple Robe' locust for a faster-growing tree. The Chanticlear Pear provides spring flowers, but minimal fruit, for those who want to avoid the litter fruits can leave.

For tall, slower-growing trees, Phelan says pin oaks or scarlet red oaks are good choices. Lindens are desired for their deep green leaves, and heart-shaped canopy. Newport plum is a tough, shorter tree that has deep purple leaves, adding color interest throughout the growing season.

Finally, how you plant your tree is critical for its long-term growth and health. CSU Extension recommends that we dig a large, bow-shaped hole, and enrich the soil with compost. Most nurseries offer delivery and planting service, starting at about $50.

It is important to nurture your new planting for 2-3 years, especially winter watering, until it is established. You will know you’ve succeeded when it has new growth and flourishes.

CSU Extension stresses careful plant selection – “right plant, right place.”

Contributed by Brook E. Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/30/08.)

Sep 23 - 30

Q: The leaves on some of my perennial flowers, vegetables, and shrubs have a dusty, white powdery appearance. Are these plants diseased? What can I do to control the problem?

A:The problem is a fungus called powdery mildew. Weather conditions this summer in the Pikes Peak region were ideal to cause a significant breakout.

Powdery mildews are a common problem for Colorado gardeners, but easily diagnosed and fairly easy to manage through cultural methods and plant selection. Powdery mildews are host-specific, but affect virtually all kinds of plants: grasses, vegetables, ornamentals, shrubs, fruit trees and shade trees. Fruit and vegetable production can be impacted by this disease.

The drought-dry, hot summer conditions in June and July were perfect for this fungus because it doesn't need the presence of water on the leaf for infection to occur. The rains and high-humidity conditions in August provided the perfect conditions to favor spore production. The spores enable the disease to survive the winter. Other conditions that favor this fungus include crowded plantings where air circulation is poor or planting in damp, shaded areas. Young, tender, succulent plant growth is usually more susceptible than older plant tissues.

Symptoms of this fungus are easily recognizable. Powdery mildews look like a white to grayish, talcum-powder-like growth on the leaf surface. Later in the season, tiny, pepper-like structures may appear within the white powdery material. These pinhead-sized, dark-colored formations are the over-wintering bodies, or spores, of the fungus. They survive on leaves that fall to the ground. In the spring, the spores are transferred to new leaves by splashing raindrops, wind or insects. This disease most often affects the upper leaf surfaces, but has also been observed on bottom surfaces of leaves, young stems, buds, flowers and young fruit.

Prevention of powdery mildews may be as easy as plant selection and cultural practices. Many plants have been developed to be resistant to powdery mildews. For instance, bee balm is a wonderful, perennial ornamental flower for this region, but is very susceptible to powdery mildew. However, now there are mildew resistant varieties available at garden nurseries. The same holds true for several varieties of vegetables and fruits.

If resistant varieties are unavailable, avoid planting in low, shady locations where humidity will be high because of poor air circulation. Selectively prune overcrowded plant material to help increase air circulation and reduce relative humidity and infection. Provide adequate spacing between plantings. Avoid overhead watering, especially late in the day, to help reduce humidity.

Control of powdery mildews once the disease has become a problem can be accomplished with cultural practices. Avoid late-summer applications of nitrogen fertilizer to limit the succulent plant tissue growth favored by this fungus. Remove and destroy all infected plant parts (leaves, stems, fruits). Clean up and dispose of all leaves and vegetable debris that falls to the ground in autumn. Do not compost affected plant parts. Home compost piles seldom reach the temperatures required to destroy the fungus.

Chemicals may be used if cultural methods do not completely control the disease, but will be most effective when used in combination with cultural controls. Fungicides should be applied at 7 to 14-day intervals to provide continuous protection throughout the growing season. Fungicides containing chlorothalonil or triforinel are for ornamental plant use only. Sulfur dusts and horticultural spray oils are two non-toxic, effective alternatives that will protect uninfected leaves from the fungus, but be sure to follow label directions. These methods of control are preventative and will not control or eradicate the disease once established.

Contributed by Peg Zimprich, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/23/08.)

Sep 16 - 23

Q: Some of my perennial flowers didn’t bloom as well this year as they did last year. A friend says they probably need to be divided. How do I do it?

A:The wonderful thing about perennials is they can be dug up, pulled apart and replanted, creating lots of free plants for your garden. Perennials benefit from division every three to five years. Divide a plant if it has a dead spot in the middle, is crowding out other plants, or it hasn’t flowered well. You can also divide plants if you want to share a favorite plant with a friend or relocate plants to other areas of your garden.

Most gardeners resist digging up plants and pulling them apart, but plants welcome the chance to expand their root systems. As they grow, perennials spread by forming new plantlets, shoots or suckers in their never-ending search for new soil. The center of the plant sometimes dies back and the plant’s energy is concentrated on new growth. You can rejuvenate old plants by dividing to keep them healthy and blooming.

When to divide
Divide spring flowering plants in the fall. Plants that are flowering are using their energy to bloom and won’t form the necessary root systems before winter. Signs that perennials need dividing include smaller than normal flowers, centers that are dead and brown, or weeds and neighboring plants invading the clump. Perennial plants to divide in the fall include iris, peony, daylilies, cool season grasses and ground covers.

Get started
Water the plants thoroughly the day before you divide them. Pick a cool, cloudy day, clear the area for replanting and amend the soil if necessary. Prune the stems and foliage back to 4-6 inches to ease division and cut down on moisture loss. Dig up the whole root ball by inserting a spade or shovel a few inches out from the base of the plant, pry underneath and lift out the whole clump. Gently shake the dirt from the root ball or clean it off with a gentle spray from the hose.

Perennial root systems
Perennials have several different types of root systems and need to be divided accordingly. Plants with spreading root systems like purple coneflowers can usually be pulled apart by hand. Gently separate the plants into clumps of three to five vigorous shoots. Daylilies have clumping root systems and may need to be cut apart through the thick, fleshy crowns. Use a sharp knife and keep at least one developing eye or bud with each division. Bearded iris grows from a rhizome root system. Use a knife to trim younger rhizomes into sections that include healthy looking roots and one or two strong leaf fans. Cool season grasses including blue oat grass, blue fescue and ‘Karl Forester’ can be divided now. Cut the grass clump into quarters and discard any dead or woody center growth. Replant divisions as soon as possible and water well. Mulch fall divisions to protect the new root systems from frost.

For more information, go to “How to divide perennials” www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1018.html or “Dividing Ornamental Grasses” www.ext.colostate.edu/ptlk/1068.html

Contributed by Valerie Smith, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/16/08.)

Sep 9 - 16

How Gardens Affect Wildlife

Your garden has an impact on wildlife. Your choices of plants, pesticide and fertilizer use, and irrigation practices all impact the environment and the creatures living there.

On the positive side, having a glorious and healthy display of plants and flowers attracts and supports local families of birds and animals. Bees, butterflies, moths and ants are pollinators, and beneficial insects like the Tachinid fly visit and help keep other, harmful, insects under control.

Using native species of plants encourages an environment more suitable to native wildlife who do not discriminate between a natural area and your well manicured and much loved garden.

But did you know that more birds are killed by lawn treatments than are killed by West Nile Virus?

The National Audubon Society says, "Each year, American homeowners use approximately 70 million pounds of pesticides to maintain their lawns..." and "...it is estimated that approximately 7 million wild birds are killed each year due to the aesthetic use of pesticides by homeowners."

This happens even if you follow the directions carefully!

Pesticides, whether intended for insects or weeds, become part of the food chain. Birds eat the poisoned insects. Affected birds may become sick or die and be eaten by other birds or animals and so on up the chain.

Colorado State University warns that special precautions are needed when using pesticides:

"Examine the area to be treated and the surrounding area. Are there plants or animals that could be harmed by the pesticide? Don't spray if you cannot guarantee they will not be injured. You are responsible for any damage that could occur. "

Irrigation water containing chemical fertilizers and weed killers runs off lawns and gardens into storm drains and then into streams and rivers. It is hard to find a natural stream that does not have some pesticide residue – and that affects us all, fish, animals and humans.

According to a study by G.T. Millar in Sustaining the Earth, "Pesticide use raises a number of environmental concerns. Over 98% of sprayed insecticides and 95% of herbicides reach a destination other than their target species, including non-target species, air, water, bottom sediments, and food." These pesticides come from agricultural use as well as homeowner use.

So what can we do to make our gardens more wildlife friendly?

The National Wildlife Federation has a program where homeowners can register their own yards as Certified Wildlife Habitat.

The recommendation is that homeowners provide elements from the following list:

Food Sources. Native plants, seeds, fruits, nuts, berries, nectar

Water Sources. Birdbath, pond, water garden, stream

Places for Cover. Thicket, rockpile, birdhouse

Places to Raise Young. Dense shrubs, vegetation, nesting box, pond

Sustainable Gardening.: Mulch, compost, rain garden, chemical-free fertilizer

If you follow those simple recommendations and take care about pesticide use, you will have a garden that not only attracts wildlife, but provides a safe habitat. What fun! Keep your camera handy!

Contributed by Vicky MacWilliam, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/9/08.)

Sep 2 - 9

Q: I have two strange things happening with my trees. I notice these brown conspicuous pineapple-like forms on my blue spruce. What are they? I also see a snowy-looking substance on my Douglas-fir trees. Are these harmful?

A: These are galls, commonly found on the tips of spruce branches, and are produced by insects called Cooley spruce gall or woolly adelgid. Adelgids are a type of aphid.

In August, we frequently get inquiries at the CSU Master Gardener Help Desk from worried homeowners, fearing that their trees may be at risk

Early in the season, galls start appearing as 2 to 4-inch long cucumber-shaped growths. They start out light green in the spring and then as summer progresses, they turn a brown color. Some people describe them as a strange cone.

These galls usually do not cause serious harm to the tree, apparently due to the waxiness of the pine needles, and become unnoticeable in a year. Removing the brown gall does not help control the insect.

These adelgids have an interesting life cycle. They require two hosts, a Douglas fir and a spruce, to complete their entire life cycle, often taking a complete year.

On blue spruce, the woolly aphids overwinter as immature females, living under young branches. In the spring, the females mature and lay several hundred eggs near newly developing buds.

Around bud break, the eggs hatch and the young nymph insects crawl to the new spring growth where they feed on the branch tips of our spruces. It is their saliva that changes development of the branch tips, causing galls.

In spring, the galls are green and hard to spot. By midsummer, the galls dry out, these chambers open, and the winged forms migrate to Douglas fir trees. The vacated galls turn brown and become very noticeable.

Once in Douglas fir trees, eggs are laid on the needles and several generations of white sticky, cottony-looking woolly adelgids are produced. Galls are only produced on spruce trees, not Douglas fir. Late in the summer, the woolly aphids produce wings and return to the spruce trees to deposit eggs and the cycle starts all over again.

You rarely need to control wooly adelgids in order to promote tree health. The infestations vary greatly from year to year, but if you do want to control them, do so before the galls begin to form.

The best time of year to apply an insecticide (like carbaryl or permethrin) or a horticultural oil, is in the spring before the insects have begun to swell with eggs; mid-March to late April is best. These can also be applied in warm fall weather, from mid-October to November.

Insecticidal soaps have been shown to be only moderately effective on spruce, but are widely used on Douglas-fir.

It isn’t necessary to remove the old galls because they won’t be reused by the insects, but many people remove them because they are unsightly.

To decrease gall occurrence, avoid planting Douglas-fir and blue spruces near each other when planning your landscape.

Contributed by Sue Thomas, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 9/2/08.)

Aug 26 - Sep 2

El Paso County Parks

Thanks to many forward-thinking citizens over the years, a substantial amount of time and money has been invested into the El Paso County park system. The facilities are varied and spread out over the entire county. There are wonderful opportunities to spend a leisurely day by yourself, or with friends and family enjoying these spaces…what would you like to do today?

Take your dog for a run at the Bear Creek off-leash dog park. The entrance is just off of 21st Street and Rio Grande in southwest Colorado Springs.

While you are there, have a look around at the native plants that survive and thrive. We all seem to emphasize the need for trees and shade, but cast your eyes lower.

There are interesting flora adapted to survive our unique conditions. These plants may inspire you to go xeric in your own backyard. Artemesia tridentata, or sagebrush, is a gorgeous blue green color and provides a wonderful backdrop to annual or perennial flowers of blue and orange. Try Artemesia cana, big silver sage, which grows taller and provides a year-around interest of the same blue green foliage.

In your own yard, you can experiment with some of our native pants, like the rabbitbrush, Chrysothamnus nauseosus, which survives with little care after it is established. The yellow flower heads persist in the winter and give the birds a place to perch! It looks great with Russian sage and larkspur.

Our county parks may inspire you to bring home an idea or two for your own garden, but you will have to take photos, and buy the plants or seeds at a reliable nursery. There are laws against removing things from our parks, so their beauty will last generations.

Don’t have a dog? How about a ride on a bike or just take a leisurely walk? In the south part of our county, bike trails abound at Bear Creek Park and also at Clear Spring Ranch Park, south of Fountain just off of I-25.

If you feel like wandering north, head to Black Forest’s Section 16, entering at the corner of Herring and Shoup; from there you can walk your dog, ride a horse, ride a bike, or just enjoy yourself in the open air surrounded by fragrant ponderosa pine and the dark, green ground cover, kinickinick.

If you are looking for a longer bike ride, try out the New Santa Fe Regional Trail that now runs from Palmer Lake Regional Recreation Area south to the north boundary of Colorado Springs where it joins the city’s extensive bike trails. All along the way, there are plants, animals and scenery to enjoy.

How about a great trip east out on the plains? To visit Paint Mines Regional Park, take highway 24 to Calhan, go south on Yoder Road/Calhan Highway, turn east on Paint Mine Road and follow the signs.

Water is precious here, yet the land - mostly clay deposited 55 million years ago - is abundant with rabbitbrush, sage and many wildflowers. If you are considering an alternative to a bluegrass lawn, Paint Mines is a good place to see our native blue grama and buffalo grass with their nodding seadheads. Wildflowers abound – bring your camera! This park also has a wonderful history. The clay deposits were used by native Americans for their pottery and paint and settlers used the clay to make bricks. Sunset is the best time to see the fascinating colors.

There are numerous programs available at Bear Creek Nature Center, Paint Mines Interpretive Park, Homestead Ranch, and Fountain Creek Nature Center. Learn about our wildlife and teach your children too. Check out the No Child Left Inside campaign.

Like to fish? For fishing fun, take a trip to Willow Springs Ponds within Fountain Creek at Highway 16 and Interstate 25.

For a complete list of parks and leisure services as well as directions and programs offered by El Paso County visit the website at http://elpasoco.com/Parks/.

Contributed by Brook E. Mark and Vicky MacWilliam, Colorado Master Gardeners. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/26/08.)

Aug 19 - 26

Q: What are insect traps and how are they useful?

A: Insect traps can be used to monitor or even reduce insect populations. They use a variety of lures to attract insects, so they don’t harm humans or other animals, reducing the need for insecticides.

Insect traps are used for at least three purposes:
1. To detect the presence of an exotic pest (an insect pest not previously known to inhabit a state or region).
2. To indicate the first emergence or peak flight activity of a pest species in a given area, often to time an insecticide application.
3. To safely eliminate a specific pest.

In August, yellow jacket traps are widely available. They are proven to be effective for the western yellow jackets, a frequent visitor at our back-yard barbeques. Western yellow jackets are attracted to the chemical lure heptyl butyrate, which does not attract the less-pesky paper wasps or hornets.

Most traps use a sticky surface – think “roach motel” or a funnel shape to capture the insect. Funnel-shaped traps let insects enter easily, but they have difficulty finding their way out again.

Traps usually contain a chemical attractant, or “lure.” This attractant lures only a specific species, thus sparing beneficial insects. For example:
· Food: for example beer attracts snails and slugs
· Visual lures such as lights, bright colors, and shapes
· Chemical attractants or pheromones which are the substances female insects use to sexually attract males

For some very interesting information about wasp-like insects, visit this link, from the Colorado State University Extension website: www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05525.html

Contributed by Brook E. Mark and Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardeners. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/19/08.)

Aug 12 - 19

Q: What are thes tiny dots that are showing up on some of my plants?

A: If you’ve noticed a speckled appearance developing on your landscape plants, spider mites may be the culprit. Spider mites are plaguing many southern Colorado gardens this very moment. In July and August, their feeding causes light dots to develop on leaves. In the beginning, the leaves look a diffuse white, yellow, or bronze color. As the damage progresses, the leaves turn brown and eventually fall off. Just when plants need a break from the heat and drought, these rascals compound landscape problems.

Spider mites can cause damage on a wide variety of plants. Rather than being picky eaters, they are delighted to feast on trees, shrubs, vegetables, and vines. Lounging in the shade of the underside of leaves, they live in a colony. There may be hundreds of mites in each colony, each producing a new generation in as little as one week.

Spider mites thrive in the heat of summer. When the weather is hot and dry, they reproduce rapidly. To make things worse, when dust accumulates on leaves, the natural enemies of spider mites have difficulty finding their prey. When heat, drought, and dusty conditions occur together, spider mite damage peaks.

How do you know if spider mites are causing damage to your plants? Since mites are less than 1/20 of an inch long, they are difficult to see. An easy way to test is to take a blank piece of white paper and hold it under a branch. Shake the branch vigorously, then carefully watch the piece of paper. If you see small, dirt-sized particles moving around on the paper, then there’s a good chance mites are present. They move rapidly once they’re disturbed. It’s time to take action.

There are several approaches gardeners can take to control spider mites. For those who want the gentlest approach possible, simply spray plants with a strong jet of water periodically. This method blasts the mites and eggs from the leaves. Additionally, it temporarily increases the humidity on the leaves. Just like most Coloradoans, spider mites abhor high humidity. As a result, their reproductive rate slows. The water method also washes dust from leaves and improves the ability of natural enemies to locate a tasty spider mite meal.

For gardeners that have a more serious situation, consider applying oil. Both petroleum-based horticultural oils and neem oils are among the most effective and safe miticides available to homeowners. Both are available at most garden centers.

To increase the oil’s effectiveness, be sure to spray the underside of leaves since that is where the mites hang out. Words of caution…don’t apply oils to drought-stressed plants or during 90 degrees F temperatures. Otherwise, you may cause more damage than the mites themselves. Always read and follow the pesticide label exactly.

Limit spraying plants with insecticides. Since mites are arachnids and not insects, insecticides do not kill mites. To make the problem worse, insecticides such as Sevin (carbaryl) kill the natural enemies of spider mites. Without any predators, their populations explode. Also, some chemicals in the insecticide directly stimulate spider mites to reproduce.

Contributed by Catherine Moravec, Horticulture Extension Agent. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/12/08.)

Aug 5 - 12

Q: So many hot, sunny days without rain – my lawn is crunchy. What do you think about replacing my dying landscape with rocks?

A: The importance of a landscape is not to be underestimated. Trees, shrubs, lawns, flower and vegetable gardens enhance our lives and raise our property values.

We live in a semi-arid state. In an average year Colorado Springs receives 16 inches of rain. This year we are inches short of average.

Water is one of our most precious, scarce, and expensive resources. Maintaining lawns and gardens has always been a challenge to the Colorado gardener, even during years of “normal” rainfall. This particular year, the scarcity of precipitation has reached drought proportions.

Colorado gardeners may need to set their “green” sights a bit lower than elsewhere in the country, but there are several things we can do to make gardening during a drought more successful.

· Plant Selection: choose plants that use less water. Plants native to Colorado thrive without any additional irrigation. Local nurseries are increasing their stock of native plant choices yearly. Visit the Colorado Native Plant Society website at www.conps.org for more information about native plants including a listing of recommended plants and retailers.

· The Plant Select® Program is a cooperative program administered by Denver Botanic Gardens and Colorado State University to seek out, identify and distribute the very best plants for landscapes and gardens. Visit http://plantselect.org/ for this listing that includes photos and descriptions.

· Hydro-Zoning: group plants with similar water needs together. Avoid over-watering xeric plants and under-watering turf and vegetables. Reduce, not eliminate, the amount of turf. Plant groundcovers in areas which are notoriously dry and/or difficult to water.

· Lawn Maintenance: keep grass at a height between 2 and 31⁄2 inches high. Never mow more than a third of the grass’s height at any one mowing. Use a self-mulching mower that will return nitrogen to the soil, provide a cooling layer of mulch, and reduce or eliminate the need for fertilizer. Core aeration breaks up thatch, breaks up soil compaction, and improves water absorption and retention.

· Irrigation Efficiency: water deeply and less frequently to develop deep roots. Water between 6 p.m. and 9 a.m. to reduce evaporation and increase penetration of water. Avoid watering when the winds are high. Remember that even the most drought-tolerant plants need water during their first two years and during extended dry periods to establish the root systems that make them so tough.

· Soil improvement: soil amendments can make a vast difference in gardening success. Colorado soil is notoriously poor in organic matter – averages only 1%, yet 5% is desirable.

Whether you have sandy or clayey soil, it will benefit from the amendment of organic matter such as compost, aged manure, humus, or sphagnum peat moss mixed into the soil, increasing the soil’s “water holding capacity.”

· Mulch: organic mulch such as wood chips or grass clippings placed directly on the soil in planting beds helps conserve moisture, moderates soil temperature extremes, and keeps weeds from emerging. In addition, organic mulches decompose and add organic matter to your soil.

Contributed by Peg Zimprich, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 8/5/08.)

July 29 - August 5

Q: With the drought we are having, I can’t seem to get enough water to my plants and lawn – what will happen to them?

A: Your local Colorado Master Gardener Help Desk has been very busy this summer with drought stress issues. Since trees, gardens and nice lawns contribute significantly to property values, our dry weather has had most people struggling with watering issues.

How dry has it been? In June, precipitation in the Pikes Peak region was down about 75%, and in July 90% from normal. Additionally, our winter and spring was much dryer than normal. But fortunately, our mountains received a lot of snow this winter, and our reservoirs are still at over 90% capacity.

How are lawns affected? Local residents are bringing in several samples each day to the CMG Help Desk, usually with damage occurring most in the sunniest spots in their lawns. Most turf samples show drought stress, and secondary infections from that, like mite damage or ascochyta leaf blight. The sprinkler settings you’ve had in place for years may not be adequate this summer because we are not having our normal “monsoon” afternoon rains. Solution: increase the time your sprinklers run, to allow deep irrigation three times a week. Hand watering will help extra-dry spots, but consider planting shade trees for long-term help. Do not fertilize now because grass requires even more irrigation when it gets a burst of nitrogen, or it will burn.

How are plants and trees affected? If you look closely at your trees and plants, you may see the leaves wilting with acute water deficit – when water supply declines rapidly, plants get dehydrated. At this point, shoots will go limp, or you may see leaves with browned edges. These plants have poor resistance to pests and secondary infections.

Chronic deficit is when plants have less water than they need, over a longer period of time. This will cause plant growth to slow or stop. . Deciduous trees will often drop leaves, and plants may show fall color early. Deciduous trees might get cracking on the bark and trunk bleeding, at which point its health is compromised.

What can you do? Take a close look around your yard and see if your grass or plants need a little extra water. Mulch will help the vegetable garden retain water during the hot days. Longer grass will shade the roots, and mulching when you mow will help your lawn. Give special attention to watering tree roots, and give them a shower from a hose, to make up for our dry air. Call a professional arborist if a special tree is severely stressed.

As always, CSU Extension stresses careful plant selection – “right plant, right place.”

Contributed by Brook E. Mark, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/29/08.)

July 22 - 29

Q: I want to attract hummingbirds and butterflies to my yard. How do I encourage them to visit my garden?

A: Birds and butterflies will flock to your garden if you provide the basics – water, food, and shelter. Planting a wildlife-friendly garden rewards the gardener with the joy of watching the landscape come alive with activity while increasing biodiversity in your yard. Birds and butterflies play an important role in the garden, gobbling up hundreds – probably thousands- of garden pests. Butterflies pollinate flowers, helping to maintain the garden that feeds them.

Here’s a garden “blueprint” designed to lure birds and butterflies:

Water

A constant supply of fresh water is essential. A fountain provides fresh, running water and birds are attracted to the gurgling sounds, and attracts all kinds of wildlife. Hummingbirds prefer water that drips or sprays, so a fountain with multiple tiers will be their choice. If you don’t have room for a water feature, try a simple birdbath and refill it often with fresh water. Two inches is the maximum depth of the water, any deeper and birds fear drowning. For butterflies, fill a shallow saucer with sand and keep it moist. Place birdbaths and fountains in open areas, not too close to bushes and areas where predators may lurk.

Food

A well-planned garden is low maintenance and provides both food and nectar, reducing the need for feeders. Whether you plant perennials or annuals, bright colors attract hummingbirds and butterflies. Red is the favorite color of hummingbirds, and trumpet shaped or tubular red flowers invite them to your garden. Try trumpet vine, bee balm, agastache (hummingbird mint), fuchsia and red flowered petunias.

Butterflies will float in and out of your garden if you plant a few of their favorite foods. They enjoy butterfly bush, phlox, lavender, yarrow, coneflowers, cosmos and zinnias. Milkweed is a great all-purpose plant for Monarch butterflies; the adults take nectar from the flowers and the caterpillars eat the leaves.

Shelter

Birdhouses offer readymade nesting areas, but birds often prefer to choose their own nesting places. Fruit-bearing shrubs and trees provide food and protection for birds - try crabapple, serviceberry and juniper. A variety of conifers, shade trees and shrubs allow birds to nest perch and take cover in bad weather. If you set out small amounts of dryer lint in the spring, hummingbirds may use it in their nests.

Butterflies love to bask in the sun, so encourage them to linger by placing a few rocks in the landscape for landing pads. Plant the butterfly garden in a sunny, protected area and group plants in clusters. Butterflies avoid shade and wind.

Birds and butterflies will visit your garden if you provide the food and habitat they prefer. Native plants adapted to our region are easier to grow and attract the local species. Most wildlife prefer gardens that are not too meticulous, and offer protection in plants of varying heights. Allow some plants go to seed – birds will pick clean the seed heads of sunflowers, asters and cosmos in the fall.

Contributed by Valerie Smith, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/22/08.)

July 15 - 22

Q: I don’t have an automatic sprinkling system, will hand watering with a hose and sprinkler waste too much water?

A: The common garden hose and sprinkler can efficiently water your yard and not drain your wallet if you’ll keep a few things in mind.

Here are the basics:

Buy a hose long enough to reach all areas of your yard.
Invest in a quality hose that won’t kink when you’re watering or rolling it up.
Experiment with different sprinkler heads. There’s some on the market that will give you options about the shape of spray they’ll emit. For example, some areas of your yard might be watered best by using a narrow rectangular spray; the center of your yard might do well with a traditional circular spray. You’ll get the idea as you practice with the sprinkler.
Whatever sprinkler or sprinklers you choose make sure they’ll lay flat when the water is turned on. It’s frustrating to look out the window and see the water pressure from the hose has turned your sprinkler on the side or upside down.
Check the area for water runoff. If the sprinkler’s too close to the sidewalk or street you’ll waste water.
Water when the air is still. Usually early in the morning or later in the evening right around dusk. Watering on a windy day isn’t a good idea.

As you move the hose around your yard, mark the areas you place the sprinkler head.
Next, determine how much water you want to put out at one time. It’s helpful to know what kind of soil you have. Generally, clay soils can accept more water at one time than sandy soils where the water will run off. To learn more about what kind of soil you have contact CSU extension office at 719-636-8926 for information about soil analysis.
If you’ve decided you want to water 1⁄2” you need to determine how long it takes to put out that much water. Place seven or eight empty straight sided cans, like soup cans, in a circle moving farther and farther out from the sprinkler head.
Set a timer for 15 minutes and turn on your hose. At the end of that time check all the cans for two things: how much water was collected as well as how effectively the sprinkler reached all of the cans.
You can adjust the length of time you water time as well as sprinkler placement.

Because you’re observing your lawn more closely and are ‘out there’ when you move the hose, you’ll notice changes in your lawn more quickly than if you rely on an irrigation system to water. You’ll be able to spot potential problems before they get out of hand.
You may actually save water and money! Experts at Colorado Springs Utilities estimate that people with automatic sprinkler systems over-water their lawns by as much as 40% whereas people who hand water with a hose use only 10% more water than needed.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/15/08.)

July 8 - 15

Q: I see a lot of small black insects crawling in a line across my driveway. Could they be termites? Are they going to hurt my plants or invade my house?

A: You most likely are observing the activity of Pavement ants. Pavement ants (Tetramorium caespitum) commonly make their nests around foundations, under rocks and in cracks of sidewalks and driveways. They are a recent arrival to the state but are currently the most common ant found in homes. They are small ants (1/10 to 1/16 inch) with a dark body, pale-colored legs and antennae, and a series of grooves on their faces.

Ants are characterized by a narrow, pinched "waist," and bent or elbowed antennae. They can be confused with termites, particularly when swarms are produced. However, termites have a broad waist and antennae that look like a string of small beads.

Ants are common throughout the Rocky Mountain region and the average yard is host to innumerable ants. Ants usually are considered beneficial to a yard, helping to control pests and weed seeds, as well as loosening the soil with their nest-building activity.

Worker ants forage constantly during the warmer months of the season. The workers lay down a chemical trail as they forage, which helps direct other workers to foods. Pavement ants forage on a variety of food that includes grease, meat, small seeds and sweets. However, feeding habits may shift during the year due to changes in colony needs.

Ants are highly adaptable in their nesting habits. You can usually find their nests by watching the movement of the ants. Although some ants build conspicuous mounds, others don't, so watching the pathway of the workers will direct you to the nest. Ant nests usually are produced underground and colonies contain tens of thousands of workers. Few ants in Colorado form a nest indoors.

If ant nests are located adjacent to plants they may chew through plant roots. Ants that damage plants in the garden are sometimes associated with aphids that are feeding on the roots. Ants found climbing trees are either interested in the aphids feeding on the foliage, or the sap flowing from the tree as a result of natural causes, disease or injury. Ants are also attracted to peonies because of the sap the flower buds secrete. It's a myth that ants are necessary to permit peonies to bloom.

An important step to any ant control program is to remove attractive food. Crumbs, grease, food scraps and other food is sought by foraging worker ants and they will return to areas where food is found.

If ant-feeding bait is used as a control, remove other food so the ants concentrate on the bait and not the food.

Most nuisance ants nest outdoors. To prevent many ants from foraging indoors, apply perimeter treatments of residual insecticides around foundations. Numerous insecticides are currently registered for general suppression of ants outdoors.

For further information see CSU Extension Fact Sheets 5.518 (Ants) and 5.532 (Termites).

Contributed by Carolyn Christenson Colorado Master Gardener,. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/8/08.)

July 1-8

Q: I’d like to grow some of my own food but I don’t have room for a vegetable garden. What do you suggest?

A: Many fruits and vegetables are attractive, and can add interest to various garden areas.

Apples are the most reliable fruit trees for our area, provide shade and have pretty blossoms in the spring. It’s important to choose varieties resistant to fireblight, a disease we see frequently at the Master Gardener Helpdesk. Chose trees with later bloom times as are more likely to avoid frost damage to the flowers. Apples require a pollinator—another apple variety that blooms nearby at the same time. CSU Extension recommends Cox Orange, Golden Delicious (a good pollinator), and McIntosh.

Gooseberries and currents are attractive four-foot shrubs native to this area, and hardy to 10,000 feet. Gooseberries have thorns, while currents do not. Full sun, regular watering and fertile soil will encourage a bigger berry crop; however, these tenacious plants will still grow and produce in more marginal conditions. Birds will help themselves to your berries if you delay picking them.

Rhubarb has large, ornamental leaves, and can be the cornerstone of your annual garden.. The red stems are delicious in pies, but the leaves are poisonous. A hardy perennial that dies down to the ground each year, rhubarb produces large, tender stems if you improve the soil and give it a little extra water. Removing the flower stalks when they appear will reward you with tastier stalks and more voluptuous plants, rather than abundant seed.

Green onions and alpine strawberries are ground covers and edging plants can contribute to your table. Green onions are perennial and a unique border plant, with their pretty purple ball-shaped flowers. Tiny alpine strawberries have intense flavor in their half-inch fruit, but don’t put out runners like most strawberries, so plantings stay well-behaved.

Annual vegetables are often beautiful enough to plant among your flowers. Leafy greens such as cabbage, kale, lettuce, and Swiss chard are available from seed companies in a striking assortment of colors. “Bright Lights” is a chard variety with stems ranging from white to yellow, orange, rose red, and purple! By picking one leaf at a time, instead of cutting the entire head, you can maintain the attractive appearance of your garden beds all summer long.

Peppers, eggplant, and summer squash are decorative as well as delicious. In fact, tomatoes used to be grown purely as an ornamental. These crops can grow well in our area, with a bit of shelter, enriched soil and extra irrigation.

Gardening in Colorado is a challenge. It pays to improve your soil, and group plants with similar water needs. Plant your vegetables in protected areas, and mulch to decrease weeds and evaporation. Refer to the June 2 “Dig It” to protect your plants from hail damage.

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann Colorado Master Gardener,. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 7/1/08.)

June 24 - July 1

Q: Last year codling moths infested my apples. How can I prevent that from happening this year?

A: In Colorado codling moth is a serious insect pest of apples and pears. In early July the female lays eggs directly on the fruit. These eggs pupate into caterpillars that tunnel into the fruit causing wormy apples.

Here are some ‘natural’ or organic ways to eliminate codling moths:

Trap codling moths with a mixture of 10 parts water to one part molasses in a gallon jug. Hang the jug in the tree and use a coarse screen to keep honey bees out.

Wrap the tree trunk in corrugated cardboard. Larvae can be caught in it and destroyed.

Thin young fruit so they don’t touch each other to prevent larvae from moving between fruits.

Remove fallen leaves and apples – larvae thrive in these shelter areas.

Encourage natural predators. Woodpeckers, parasitic wasps, ground beetles and earwigs provide biological control.

Insecticides are often used to control codling moth. Products containing permethrin and carbaryl are effective when applied after the tree has finished blooming. Never apply an insecticide when trees are in bloom as it will kill beneficial pollinators like honeybees. Check the label. Some insecticides may cause damage to the fruit.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/24/08.)

June 10 - 17

Q: There is this little vine with small, light pink flowers that has appeared in my garden – is it a weed?

A: This sounds like Field Bindweed, which is on the Colorado noxious weed list for good reason: its seeds remain dormant in the soil for up to 50 years and the taproot may go 20 feet deep.

This weed is a tough perennial! It’s a member of the morning glory family and produces small white or pink flowers that might be pretty except the weed will proliferate and choke grasses and desirable plants you want to grow.

Hand pulling bindweed will not produce long lasting results. Herbicides can be effective over a period of time. Be especially careful using an herbicide with glyphosate (Round-up). Though repeated applications will kill bindweed it will also kill grasses and any desirable plant you spray.

Other herbicides, such as 2.4-D, can safely be used on lawns but again, apply it carefully around shrubs and flower gardens. Don’t use any product with 2,4-D on windy days or when the temperature is over 85 degrees Fahrenheit.

Basically, persistence and patience are your best tools when dealing with bindweed.

Contributed by Eileen Tully, Apprentice Colorado Master Gardener, and Brook Marke, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/10/08.)

June 3 - 10

Q: Hail season is approaching…how can I protect my garden?

A: Colorado is in the middle of a hail belt from Alberta to New Mexico, and June has more days with hail than any other month – an average of 10! Hail is an important source of water for our region, but here are ways you can reduce damage to your garden:

Plant selection: The plants which fare best in hail are those with fine, wiry leaves and those native plants adapted to local conditions that have evolved to sustain minimal damage or have rapid regrowth rates. A few of hail resistant choices include Red Pincushion (Knautia macedonica), Flax (Linum), Desert Four O’clock (Mirabilis multiflora), Whiplash Daisy (Erigeron flagellaris), Yarrow (Achillea), or Mountain Basket of Gold (Alyssum montanum).

Covering plants: Keep sheets and old blankets handy to throw over bedding and container plants. These covers get heavy when wet, so be sure to place sticks or a cage in the ground to avoid crushing your vegetables and flowers.

Plant placement: Plants can be planted in a sheltered area, such as under a tree, or next to the house, under the eaves. Some people set containers on wheeled trays to enable moving plants into a protected area. For large beds, placing plants close together can minimize bare spots after hail, and helps them shelter each other.

Post-storm management: If you wait several days after the hail, you can see which stems and leaves need to be trimmed off or cleaned up. When hail damage occurs, fertilize lightly and avoid over-watering.

What to expect: Gardens hit in spring can recover more quickly because they are already in their growth stage. Midsummer storms can be more damaging since plants have finished their rapid spring growth period.

Ultimately, perennials may grow back fresher and stronger than before the hail, but flowering annuals that do not recover from hail damage after a week may have to be replaced. Woody plants and vegetables may have been wounded by the hail, so remove damaged fruits and stems, watch for signs of infection, and treat other symptoms accordingly.

Contributed by Karen Dayberry, Apprentice Colorado Master Gardener, and Brook Marke, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 6/3/08.)

May 22 - June 5

Q: My lawn looks terrible this spring. It looked beautiful last year. What happened?

A: Spring normally brings the return of song birds, crabapple blossoms, and a beautiful green lawn. This year, many lawns in the Pikes Peak Region look downright ugly. They appear browner than normal, failing to “green up” as usual. The grass looks thin and unhealthy. In addition, an excess of weeds may have emerged, including dandelions and weedy grasses.

These symptoms result from drought stress. Lawn suffer whenever we have a dry winter and spring, while some weeds thrive in dry conditions. In most cases, insects or diseases are not the culprit.

In normal years, Colorado Springs receives over 5 inches of precipitation from October to April. This year, we received less than 3 inches of rain and snow. This lack of water causes grass roots to dehydrate and die, leaving the lawn appearing brown and thin. Symptoms will be more severe on lawns that were not watered at least once per month during the winter. That’s why in some neighborhoods, some lawns may look great while others look completely dead.

To pick up the pieces, first determine how severe the damage is. Grasp several grass plants close to the ground in a brown area and pull. If the base of the plants is totally brown and pulls out easily, it is dead. Renovate the area by seeding or sodding. If the grass resists being pulled out and you see some green tissue at the base, focus on nurturing the lawn through careful care.

Practices that will aid lawn recovery include the following:

Water carefully: Providing the lawn with adequate moisture is the key to recovery. Walk across the lawn daily. When your footprints are visible 30 minutes later, apply 1/2 to 1 inch of water. Do not water again until your footprints are again visible.
Core aerate: Aerating machines that pull cores of soil and deposit them on the surface help tremendously. The empty spaces allow water and nutrients to penetrate the soil and get to the roots.
Fertilize moderately: It’s tempting to apply a lot of fertilizer when a lawn looks bad. Instead, fertilize moderately. Apply 1 pound of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet 3 times per year in May, September, and October.

Avoid the following practices, which do not help or may be damaging:

Fertilizing excessively: Too much fertilizer in spring causes the roots to be small and shallow-rooted. This will lead to excess water needs in summer.
Bagged products: Many bagged products contain wetting agents and organic matter. While not harmful, they do not solve the moisture deficit that caused the original problem.
Power raking: This practice often damages the roots, which leads to further drought stress.

With careful spring care, most lawns can recover fully.

Contributed by Catherine Moravec, Horticulture Agent. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/29/08.)

May 15-22

Q: I’d like to grow some of my own food but I don’t have room for a vegetable garden. What do you suggest?

A: Many fruit and vegetable plants are very ornamental, and may be incorporated into an attractive landscape design.

Apples are the most reliable fruit trees for our area. It’s important to choose varieties resistant to fireblight, which is prevalent along the Front Range. Those with later bloom times are more likely to avoid frost damage. Apples require a pollinator—another apple variety that blooms nearby at the same time. CSU Extension recommendations include Cox Orange, Golden Delicious (a good pollinator), and McIntosh.

Both gooseberries and currents are attractive four-foot shrubs native to the Rockies, and hardy to 10,000 feet. Gooseberries have thorns, while currents do not. Full sun, regular watering and fertile soil will encourage a bigger berry crop; however, these tenacious plants will still grow and produce in more marginal conditions. If you don’t pick the berries, the birds will be sure to clean them up for you.

Rhubarb is another large, ornamental plant. The big green leaves make a bold garden statement and the bright red stems are beautiful as well as tasty. A hardy perennial that dies down to the ground each year, rhubarb needs good soil and regular watering to produce large, tender stems. Remove the flower stalk when it appears in early summer to direct the plant’s energy into growing roots and leaves rather than an abundant (and annoying) seed crop. Be sure to only eat the stems; the leaves are poisonous.

Many annual vegetable plants are beautiful enough to plant among your flowers. Leafy greens such as kale, lettuce, and Swiss chard come in an assortment of striking colors. 'Bright Lights' is a chard variety with stems ranging from white to yellow, orange, rose red, and purple! Try that with your petunias. By picking one leaf at a time, instead of cutting the entire head, you can maintain the attractive appearance of your garden beds all summer long. Peppers, eggplant, and summer squash are decorative as well as delicious. In fact, tomatoes used to be grown purely as an ornamental. These crops need moist, fertile soil and a warm, sheltered spot.

Even groundcovers and edging plants can contribute to your table. Alpine strawberries are a real treat. Imagine all the flavor of a large berry concentrated in a half-inch fruit. Alpines don’t put out runners, so plantings stay well-behaved.

No matter what plants you choose to grow, remember good gardening practices. Most edibles appreciate fertile loam, which is not found naturally in Colorado. Amend your soil before planting. An inch thick layer of organic amendments dug it in at least 6 – 8 inches deep will improve both sand and clay. Simplify watering by grouping plants with similar irrigation needs. Mulch to create even soil moisture and temperatures. Control pests as they become a problem, but keep in mind that you are growing food you intend to eat.

Growing edibles gives you a double return for your gardening efforts—beauty and food!

Contributed by Leslie Holzmann, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

May 8-15

Q: Are native plants a good choice for my garden?

A: Colorado has hundreds of naturally adapted native plants that enhance our unique landscape. However, many are threatened due to rapid urbanization and development. Native plants are often destroyed when new buildings are constructed. Also, native plants are being overtaken by other exotic, nonnative species. Some introduced plants have escaped cultivation and become noxious weeds, threatening our western landscape. Common noxious weeds include dame’s rocket (Hesperis matronalis), myrtle spurge (Euphorbia myrsinites), tamarisk (Tamarix ramosissima, commonly called saltcedar), and purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria). These and other invasive plants threaten Colorado’s uniqueness.

Planting Colorado natives plants in our gardens has many benefits, but primary is conservation of our local biodiversity. Native plants make us visually distinct from the eastern, southern, or westernmost United States. By planting natives in your yard, it preserves the local population when their natural habitat is destroyed. Natives include herbaceous perennials, shrubs, cacti and trees, and cover the full spectrum of colors, size, and habitat. Generally they have low maintenance and low water requirements because they grew naturally in Colorado prior to European settlement. Many are food sources and provide cover for our many birds, mammals, and insects.

Many of Colorado’s natives can bee seen all around you, whether on the plains or in the foothills, or up on Pikes Peak. Common natives include ponderosa pines, pinyon pines, mountain mahogany (Cercocarpus montanus), kinnikinnick (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi), sunflowers, chokecherry (Padus virginiana), and many grasses. One of our most beautiful examples is the Colorado columbine (Aquilegia caerulea).

Many other native plants may be more unfamiliar, but will do well in a cultivated environment. A few examples include Apache plume (Fallugia paradoxa), Boulder raspberry (Oreobatus deliciosus), bee balm (Monarda fistulosa), and Rocky Mountain juniper (Sabina scopulorum). Some others, although not commonly available, have interesting historical common names like beggar’s tick, birds-eye-primrose, bishop’s cap, bedstraw, compass plant, creeping Jenny, devil’s shoestrings, prairie smoke and sneezeweed.

Under no circumstances should you collect any native plants in the wild. Nurseries seldom collect and sell wild plants. You should also beware of so-called “wildflower seed mixes”, which often contain weeds. Many local nurseries carry extensive inventories of native plants or can order them for you. Bring plant lists with scientific names to ensure you are buying the correct plant. Also, the Colorado Springs Horticultural Arts Society’s annual sale on Mother’s Day weekend features many beautiful natives.

To further your knowledge of native plants, Denver Botanic Gardens features seven distinctive gardens containing the finest collections of Rocky Mountain and Great Plains native plants in cultivation. Right in our own backyard we are fortunate to have our Colorado Springs Utilities’ Xeriscape Demonstration Garden on Mesa Road with many beautiful natives.

Check the Colorado Native Plant Society’s website for an extensive listing at www.conps.org. Also, the Denver Botanic Gardens website at www.botanicgardens.org provides helpful information. Colorado State University has several fact sheets to help you choose and plant natives, including 7.242 (Native Herbaceous Perennials), 7.421 (Native Trees for Colorado Landscapes), and 7.422 (Native Shrubs for Colorado Landscapes. Check the website at www.ext.colostate.edu.

Contributed by Sue Thomas, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/8/08.)

May 1-8

Q: Last year, I noticed some branches on my apple and crabapple trees turned black. What should I do now?

A: During the spring of 2007, warm temperatures and frequent rain showers provided the perfect conditions for an outbreak of a bacterial disease known as fire blight. This disease is especially destructive to apple, crabapple, mountain ash and pear trees. This spring has been dry, so most fire blight infections noticed now occurred last spring.

Fire blight is caused by a bacterium. The bacteria overwinter on blighted branches and at the edges of cankers, dead areas of bark killed by bacteria. In cool, wet conditions, it multiplies rapidly. Masses of the bacteria are forced to the bark surface, and a sweet, gummy bacterial ooze forms. Insects are attracted to this ooze, pick up the bacteria on their bodies, and spread the disease to opening blossoms on other trees. Young branch tips may be infected through wounds created by pruning, insects or hail storms.

Symptoms of fire blight appear when petals fall from the blossoms. The infected blossoms appear water-soaked and wilt rapidly before turning dark brown. Leaves wilt, darken and remain attached to the tree, giving the tree a fire-scorched appearance, thus the name “fire blight.” Trees develop curled, bent and blackened shoots, called shepherd's crooks.

There is no cure for this disease. Gardeners can use pruning, spraying, resistant varieties, and cultural practices to manage current infections and prevent future problems.

Prune and destroy diseased branches after the leaves have fully expanded (June), not when the leaves are emerging. Do this when no rain is predicted for at least two weeks. You can also leave pruning until late winter (early March) when the bacteria are not active. Make pruning cuts 6-12 inches below the black areas on the branches. AFTER AND BETWEEN EACH CUT, surface sterilize all tools used in pruning. Dip tools in household bleach or ethyl alcohol, or use household spray disinfectants. Tool sterilization is essential to avoid contamination and spread of the bacteria.

Spraying may be used as a preventative method; it will have little effect on an existing infection. Antibiotic sprays containing streptomycin or terramycin are available and registered for use in Colorado under various brand names, although streptomycin is losing its effectiveness. These antibiotics should be used when blossom begin to open. Copper sulfate mixtures are suitable for fire blight control and should be used before leaves form in early spring.

The most effective prevention is using resistant varieties. No variety is immune when conditions are favorable and the pathogen is abundant, but selecting varieties adapted to Colorado’s Front Range growing conditions may prevent stress that predispose the tree to disease-causing agents. Resistant varieties of apple include Red Delicious, Winesap, Haralson, Liberty Prima, Priscilla, and Redfree. Good choices for pear include Harrow Delight, Magness, Moonglow, Starking Delicious. Crabapple varieties found resistant include Centurion, Coralburst, David, Indian Summer, Profusion, Radiant, Red vein Russian, Vanguard, and White Cascade.

Cultural practices can impact the spread of fire blight. Trees planted in poorly drained soil are more susceptible. Avoid use of heavy applications of nitrogen fertilizers or manure. Drip irrigation reduces the high humidity conditions caused by overhead watering and may reduce disease severity.

Contributed by Peg Zimprich, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 5/1/08.)

Apr 24 - May 1

Q: Everyone knows the benefits of growing your own tomatoes at home, but is it really worthwhile to grow your own lettuce or spinach?

A: Gardening is an activity known to relax the mind and body and improve our sense of well-being. The physical action of gardening is a healthful exercise. Join these benefits with the following facts:

Leafy vegetables contain more vitamins and minerals than any other vegetables.
By growing vegetables yourself, you control what chemicals, if any, are used.
Because you can harvest them and eat them the same day, home grown vegetables retain maximum flavor and nutrition.

Leafy vegetables are very easy to grow. Lettuce and spinach can be planted by seed directly into the garden as early as April 15th in Colorado Springs. Swiss chard, parsley, and endive can be seeded directly into the garden as early as April 30th. It is best to apply a thin half- inch layer of mulch such as dried grass clippings or straw over the seeds to help maintain soil temperature and moisture levels. Keep the soil evenly moist with 1 to 1-1/2 inches of water per week. If the soil is allowed to dry out, the vegetables will become tough, stringy, and will develop a strong flavor. As the seeds begin to sprout, thin the seedlings to the proper spacing listed on the seed packet to reduce competition for nutrients, moisture, and light.

Leafy vegetables can be harvested whenever there is enough of the vegetable to make it worthwhile. Continue harvesting leaves as long as they continue to grow and are tasty. A second crop of leafy vegetables can be planted in early August to provide nutritious home grown vegetables well into the fall.

For information on specific varieties of vegetables suitable for growing in this area contact the El Paso County Extension office at 636-8920 and ask for fact sheet 7.608, Leafy Vegetable Crops. Or visit the website at http://elpasoco.colostate.edu, select horticulture.

Contributed by Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/24/08.)

Apr 17-24

Q: I’ve heard that water prices may increase in the future. What can I do to make sure that I don’t waste water in my landscape?

A:Home landscapes do more than beautify the places we live. The trees, shrubs, flowers, and vegetable gardens we grow all affect our environment and our use of resources. In Colorado’s semi-arid climate, what plants we water and how we water them has a direct impact on our landscape water use.

Homeowners can save water by ensuring their irrigation system applies water uniformly and reduces water waste. In the typical home yard, a well-maintained irrigation system could reduce water use by 20-70%. Too many home gardeners don’t design or maintain their irrigation systems for the best use of water.

Here are some tips for planning your landscape watering:

Plants should be grouped according to their water needs. For example: low water-use flower beds or rock garden plants have different water needs than turf. How much sun and shade any planted area receives will affect water needs. Set your sprinkler run times to meet the needs of the plants in each of your sprinkler zones.
Plants will have varying water needs according to the time of year. Don’t adjust your sprinkler system to one setting and leave it that way throughout the growing season. Set your irrigation controller to apply 30-40% less water in spring and fall compared to mid-summer. Plants need less water when the weather is cool.
Run your sprinkler system manually to adjust watering times to seasonal needs and turn it off during rainy times. When footprints in your lawn are visible more than 30 minutes after walking on the grass, run your sprinkler system. Then turn it off until the grass shows mild stress again.
Some newer sprinkler systems have “smart technology ET (evapotranspiration) sensors”. These sensors automatically turn on the system when the plants need water. Soil moisture sensors are another tool that turn on the irrigation system when the soil dries out.
Consider your soil type when deciding on the length of watering times. Clay soils drain slowly and sandy soils drain quickly. It might be better to run your sprinklers zones multiple times for only a few minutes each rather than once each watering session for a longer time. Adjusting water times for soil type will allow the soil to absorb water and prevent wasteful run-off.
If you see dry spots in your landscape, don’t assume that longer watering times will solve the problem. Your sprinklers may not be properly spaced or adjusted. You could also have a broken sprinkler head or cracked pipe. Spend a few minutes observing your sprinklers in action to see if they are working properly. Place some straight-sided, flat-bottom cans in various locations to measure the water applied, comparing the amount of water received in the dry spot to other green areas.
Water at night when cooler temperatures and less wind will help conserve water and prevent run-off.
Consider drip irrigation systems for shrubs, flowers, and vegetables. Drip irrigation systems apply water directly to the soil, rather than throwing it in the air. This method reduces evaporation. Mulching also helps conserve water moisture in the soil.
Sprinkler heads need regular maintenance. Check that sprinkler heads are: at the correct height, are vertical, cover the area adequately, and are not cracked, clogged, or broken.

Contributed by Deb Ross, Colorado Master Gardener. For answers to your horticultural questions, contact the Master Gardener Help Desk at 636.8921 or CSUmg2@elpasoco.com

(A version of this article was published by The Gazette on 4/17/08.)