Articles in this issue:
| Until last summer, when lawn watering was restricted to two days per week, most El Paso County residents were unaware that our region was suffering from the worst drought in eighty or ninety years. Water was a resource that was taken for granted until its use was limited. This spring, continuing outdoor watering restrictions and visible signs of drought damage to landscapes reinforce the need to use water resources more responsibly and efficiently than in the past. This spring, established lawns with short root systems (sod planted on unprepared soil or grass that was watered every day) will exhibit dead patches or winterkill. Lawns in poor condition will be more susceptible to disease and insects, and damage will continue throughout the summer. Trees and shrubs that have never been winter watered and were weak before the drought may leaf out this spring, only to lose their leaves and die during the heat of summer. Other woody plants will exhibit typical signs of drought stress, including smaller than normal leaves, scorch or browning between veins, yellow, reddish or purple evergreen needles, evergreen needles with browning at the tips, and premature leaf drop. In addition, more insect damage can be expected as trees and shrubs weaken. In the past, lawns have consumed over 50% of the water used in the summer, so current outdoor watering restrictions limit lawn watering to twice a week. This is enough to keep existing lawns with good root systems healthy. Trees, shrubs and potted plants can be watered with a bucket or watering can, soaker hose or drip system at any time. They can also be watered with a hand-held hose with a shutoff device, such as an adjustable hose nozzle or a watering wand. Dr. James Klett of Colorado State University feels that trees should be given watering priority during a drought as trees take longer to mature than other landscape (continued on top of right column of this section) |
(continued from bottom of left column of this section) plants and thus will be harder to replace. Trees should be watered 2-3 times per month, at and beyond the drip-line at a rate of approximately 10 gallons of water per inch of trunk diameter at each watering. Water using a trickle from a hose, a soil needle or soaker hose. Overhead spraying is inefficient and should be avoided. For complete information on watering during a drought, look under "drought" at www.ext.colostate.edu, or go to: www.watersaver.org If later this summer no watering is allowed, restrict traffic over the root zones of established trees and shrubs if possible. Extend a mulch layer over as much of the root zone as possible. As die back occurs, prune out dead wood. Avoid cutting into live wood even if it means leaving temporary stubs. Never fertilize woody plants that are drought stressed. What about establishing new landscapes during a drought? It's possible, especially if the seven principles of xeriscape are followed. Just remember, new plants will need frequent watering until established, which may take a few months to several years, depending on the type and size of the plant. Following xeriscape principles means designing a water-wise environment where the soil has been amended, bluegrass areas are limited or eliminated, native or well-adapted plants are grouped by water use, efficient irrigation systems are installed, mulches are applied and the landscape is maintained properly. Of course, these principles apply to water conservation in existing landscapes also! Drought conditions may be the perfect time to introduce the principles of xeriscape into the community's gardening practices. And perhaps, if these dry times are used to incorporate better horticultural techniques, the landscapes of the future will be better adapted to withstand the rigors of our region's climate. |
| To city dwellers, what we stand on, also known as the ground, is most often asphalt or concrete, and our experience with "real ground" comes from an occasional walk in the city park. Few if any city slickers ever have the experience of standing in a real vegetable garden, much less growing one. So our "real ground" knowledge might be described as nonexistent. I am a city slicker who grew up on the east coast. I was certain that you could put seeds or plants in any sunny plot of ground, give them a little water, and magical things like flowers and vegetables would spring forth -- even in Colorado. Ah, foolish me. I moved to Colorado Springs, acquired a house with a back yard, and decided to plant my first vegetable garden. My back yard looked a little like a California beach and I am not totally clueless. My husband borrowed the neighbor's rototiller and tilled a garden bed for me, adding topsoil to the mix. I randomly threw some seeds in the ground, added a few starter plants and waited for the fresh veggies to arrive. By the end of the summer, it was easy to total up my yield. I got two - count 'em - two carrots, one the size of a small radish and one the size of a large banana. I still have a picture of the big one. The peas were delicious. I ate them as I picked them -- about two individual servings. Three tomato plants produced three beautiful red tomatoes about the size of ping-pong balls. My pumpkin vine produced a single, softball-sized pumpkin. At this point, farmers, experienced home vegetable gardeners, and Colorado Master Gardeners are either weeping or rolling on the floor laughing. But I was thrilled. I actually grew some vegetables! What, I asked myself, could I accomplish with a little knowledge? I set out to learn more about vegetable gardens and spent many a pleasant winter evening browsing through seed catalogs; but somehow, the idea of learning about soil, fertilizers, insects, and the local climate escaped me. (continued on top of right column of this section) |
(continued from bottom of left column of this section) One day during an early spring blizzard, I started my next vegetable garden in my basement. I planted seeds in dozens of little Styrofoam cups and egg cartons. I planned to plant my new and improved vegetable garden on Memorial Day. When Memorial Day arrived, it was cloudy and cool with freezing rain in the forecast. I was certain the weatherman was nuts. No one has snow or freezing temperatures on Memorial Day. Right? If this were Pennsylvania, we'd be wilting in the heat by late afternoon. Out I went with my trays of little seedlings and started digging. By the time they were all in the ground, in razor-straight, regimentally-organized, carefully-labeled rows, it was beginning to sleet. By late afternoon my seedlings had disappeared under several inches of snow. I vividly remember gazing at the back yard, grinding my teeth. Some of those seedlings survived -- for a while. I added some more starter plants and again waited to see what would happen. But Mother Nature had taken my measure and set out to teach me a lesson. The bugs moved in and more of those brave seedling survivors keeled over. My single row of corn produced beautifully tall, corn-free corn stalks. I threw away a couple of mutated radishes. The pepper plants dropped leaves like it was autumn and the tomatoes refused to produce even a single flower. My sunflowers, added for color, stared stubbornly at my fence, most likely ashamed to be seen in the midst of such a mess. My half dozen zucchini plants produced - yessir - truckloads of zucchini. After that, in the summer, I went back to standing on concrete or asphalt at the local farmers' market, staring humbly at the wonders those farmers produced. Occasionally my neighbor, who grew up on a farm, invited me to stand on his lawn and admire his vegetable garden. He gave me enormous heads of lettuce and lovely ripe tomatoes. To this day I am still hugely impressed at the cunning ability of these farm folks to do something useful with what we stand on. |
| It's that time of year when fidgety gardeners, longing to be horticulturally active, look to the seeds. The catalogs hawking their gorgeous wares started coming even before Christmas and stacked up on the coffee table. (Have you ever noticed there is never a picture of an actual seed in a seed catalog?) In late January, seeds started showing up in garden centers, giving another chance to collect seeds promising beautiful fruit, veggies, and flowers. If, like me, you give in to the temptation to be growing something at this time of year, you're now faced with the challenge of starting seeds. I'm an avid fan of growing tomatoes and buy seeds so I can try new varieties each year - Caspian Pink, Sungold, Soldacki (to pay homage to my Polish roots) - to name a few. |
Lights! When I realized
my "sunny window sill" was not sunny enough, I looked longingly at the catalog
pages with $300 to $500 light set-ups for seed starting. The wheels startedturning,
and soon I was at the hardware store buying a set of three-foot wide plastic
shelves, and four-foot wide fluorescent light fixtures. (I think there is
a conspiracy out there to keep seed starting addicts from having four-foot
wide shelves and four-foot fixtures.) I hung the fixtures on their adjustable
chains, plugged the lights into a power strip, plugged the power strip into
a timer, and suddenly had the capacity to start hundreds of seeds!
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Get the Seeds Going! So now that I have my cheap (I spent about $80 overall) light and shelf set-up in place, how do I get the seeds going? The following steps for starting tomato seeds are the same for starting many other annuals.
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Enjoy! In addition to enjoying my plants, I received reports from those who adopted seedlings throughout the summer. Plus, we started enjoying Sungold tomatoes (a variety I would recommend to anyone) in early July. So fire up those lights and get started! More tomato growing information: F.S. #7.605 Tomatoes in the Home Garden http://www.ext.colostate.edu/PUBS/GARDEN/07605.html
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| Water-absorbing polyacrylamides (PAMs, hydrogels, polymer crystals, etc.) may appear to provide a partial solution to limited water resources. These materials are sold under many trade names in several grades or granule sizes, from white sugar-sized to rock salt-sized granules. They absorb many times their own weight in water, swelling and becoming gelatin-like. The water is extractable by roots/root hairs eventually growing through swollen granules. These materials degrade after a few to several years in the soil. UV radiation (sunlight) and fertilizer salts may accelerate degradation. Hydrogels appear to have slight to some benefit in certain planting situations, such as hanging baskets, containerized plants, planter barrels and others. In lawns, there are simply too many grass plants per unit area to feasibly provide sufficient hydrogel for the desired effect. It may be that their use is simply not cost effective in some planting situations. It is likely better to properly prepare soils with organic amendments and water plants correctly. Consider also that some recent (but as yet unproven) concerns have been raised over human exposure to hydrogel degradation products in soils. Starch-based polymers do not have the same concerns, but are effective for a much shorter period of time in soils. Excerpted from The Green Scene Newsletter, March 2003. |
When I worked in a greenhouse several years ago I learned about growing tomatoes from long-time tomato expert, Don Phelan. Before that, I had always struggled to get just a few ripe tomatoes before frost. Whether you grow your own tomato plants from seed or buy them from a nursery, these suggestions will help you develop healthy, productive plants.
Pick a planting site that gets 8 hours or more of sun each day. Prepare
the bed by digging in 1 pound of nitrogen fertilizer per 1,000 sq. ft. Buy
tomato varieties that work in our fairly short growing season (an average
of 148 days). Beefsteak varieties just take too long to mature.
Tomato plants are tough! They can take a lot of abuse and survive. But the one thing that's sure to kill a tomato plant is a freezing temperature. Harden off tender plants 10 days before transplanting. Start by putting them out for a few hours away from the wind and in part shade and increasing the time in the sun and wind each day until they can handle 8 hours of full sun and stay out overnight. IMPORTANT: If the temperature gets close to freezing or below, bring them inside!
Before transplanting, let the plants wilt slightly so that the stems are flexible. See those bumps at the bottom of the tomato stem? Those are all roots waiting to happen. Tomato roots like warmth and easy access to water so plant them shallow, but deep. Sound confusing? Here's what you do. Dig a shallow(continued on top of right column of this section) |
(continued from bottom of left column of this section) trench slightly larger than the root ball and lay the plant down sideways. If the plant is root-bound, pull the roots apart. Then cover one-third to one-half the stem, just leaving the very top of the plant exposed. Don't worry about any leaves you bury...they will die off and you will end up with a beautiful root system and sturdy plant stems. Be sure to water in thoroughly. Give plants about 1 inch of water a week depending on our weather and use a mulch to keep the ground from drying out. At the beginning of the growing season it's always helpful to use protective covers to keep plants warm. Tomatoes will not put on much growth or set fruit until nighttime temps are 50ƒ or above. Anything that you can do to increase the temperature will help them get off to a fast start. "Walls of water" or hot caps work well for retaining warmth on cool days and through the night. One important point: Are bigger plants better? A few years ago I experimented by transplanting tomatoes from 6-packs, 4" pots, and 6" pots, wondering if the bigger plants would produce earlier than the smaller ones? Within 6 weeks all the plants were virtually identical in size and I ended up with a bumper crop. |
| Mulch is any material that, when put on the soil surface, is beneficial for both soil and plants. These benefits include greater water holding ability, improved water and air movement and reduced soil temperature fluctuations. Plants in a mulched bed benefit from greater root protection and more freedom from competing weeds. And what's the downside? Really only the cost, transportation, and the time to put mulch down and maintain it. Mulch comes in two major types: organic (including lawn clippings, partially decomposed leaves, cocoa bean hulls and shredded bark) and inorganic (including landscape fabrics, gravel and stone). The organic mulches are typically applied to a depth of 3"-4" and the inorganics shallower, especially if using gravel in combination with a fabric. Remember, rock mulches can increase reflected heat. In either case make sure the mulch does not touch plant (continued on top of right column of this section) | (continued from bottom of left column of this section) stems. This is very important for your shrubs. Succulent twigs in cozy mulch may create a 5-Star Winter Rodent Resort! Fine dark colored mulch is normally the most aesthetically pleasing and the most expensive. Fine material is also going to degrade faster, and windy sites really beg for an inorganic mulch or perhaps a stringy and coarse shredded bark that may bind together and not end up decorating your neighbor's yard. Unless you specifically want to use fine organic mulch as a soil conditioner, keep your soil and mulch separate. This can be something of a challenge when adding new plants to already mulched beds. First scrape away the mulch in the area you want to work, install your plants, and then replace the mulch. ![]() |
| Many soils dried out over the winter, both on the surface and down 8 to 12 inches, especially if you did not winter water. Soil resistance to wetting will likely be a problem for many people when watering of perennials, lawns, trees and other landscape plants is resumed this spring. Water runoff from dry soils is something we can ill afford in our present drought. With perennials and trees, water that does wet soil may only be wetting top soil layers and leave roots at an 8 inch depth dry. This may create a false sense of having done a thorough job of providing the water that plants need. Two suggestions can help. Use a wetting agent specifically made for plants, such as Revive, Yucca-based extracts and others to help the water wet dry soil. Use a soil needle to place water down at an 8-inch soil depth. Use care to insert needles only 8 inches deep as deeper insertion will place water beyond the reach of tree or perennial flower roots. Excerpted from The Green Scene Newsletter, March 2003. |
C & C Sand Company
Rick's Nursery & Landscaping
Good Earth Garden Center
Plant Select®
Colorado State University
Cooperative Extension
El Paso County
305 S. Union Blvd.
Colorado Springs, CO 80910
(719) 636-8923