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Mountain microclimates
By Susan Fernalld, Master Gardener
Understanding and exploiting microclimates within the garden enables
high altitude gardeners cope with desiccating winds, intense sunlight,
extreme temperature differences between daylight and nighttime,
shorter growing seasons, poor soils, and our inherently dry climate.
Microclimates are created by the interaction of prevailing temperature,
precipitation, sunlight and soil type in relation to buildings,
fences, large boulders, and the direction of slope.
Challenge and Opportunity
Broadly speaking, southern exposures tend to be hot and dry, whereas
northern exposures are relatively cool and moist. Eastern exposures
are moderately cool and protected from wind. Western exposures often
expose plants to intense afternoon heat and drying winds, but they
can also provide an extended growing season.
A plant growing in the shade of a large rock might as well be in
a completely different climate than the same plant growing on the
sunny side of the rock, just as gardeners on opposite sides of a
valley can be in a completely different climate, despite being at
the same elevation.
Rock gardens can be a way to provide the moisture and temperature
conditions for growing ground-hugging plants adapted to the sub-alpine
and tundra.
Near a foundation, against a brick or stone wall or in rock mulch,
ambient heat can be extreme. Many mountain species simply can’t
take this combination of sun and heat. To increase your options
in those areas, you might use bark mulch instead of rock and plant
a shade tree. Once established, “xeriscape” trees, shrubs
and perennials can thrive with minimal irrigation needs. This is
also a place to try growing some of the more cold-tender plants
that prefer warmer climates (you can experiment with those zone
5 plants that you just have to grow in this location).
Take advantage of cooler eastern exposures to reduce evaporation
or use the drip line of a roof to harvest water. If you don’t
already have a natural feature where winter wind eddies and piles
up snow, put up a perforated snow fence (40-60% density) to accomplish
the same effect. In the spring columbine can bloom lushly year after
year in that moist microclimate you created. The snow blanket will
also help to insulate plants from winter dessication. A place where
the snow lies thick all winter is a good place to try more tender
plants.
If you live in a mountain valley where the heavier cool air shortens
your growing season, consider planting annuals in containers that
can be moved to follow the path of the sun over the seasons. Sheltering
walls and overhangs offer plant havens in cooler periods, as do
sunny open spaces during warmer weather.
Expanding the options
Light-colored decomposed granite soils, common in many mountainous
areas, are less apt to absorb heat. Amending mountain soil with
organic material (such as compost or manure) darkens the soil so
that it absorbs heat plus helps shallow, rocky soils hold the water
and air needed for root growth. You may not need to amend your soil
if you garden exclusively with native plants, whereas you probably
will need to amend your soil to expand your options to include non-native
plants. (A soil test is needed to know for sure if amendments are
necessary. Sample each of your microclimates.)
Plant Choices for high country microclimates
Drought-tolerant plants are generally better suited to our well-drained
mountain soils, intense sunlight and severe exposures, but microclimates
will provide some flexibility in plant choice. Choose plants that
are hardy within USDA zones 2 through 4, and then group those with
similar moisture and sun exposure requirements into corresponding
microclimate areas.
Examples of drought-tolerant mainstays for dry areas include the
deep blue-flowered mountain bluet, orange-yellow blanket flower
and native white woolly yarrow. Mauve-flowered beebalm and white
pussytoes grow well on dry hillsides. Taller perennials such as
oriental poppy, coral and yellow hybrid yarrows, and delphinium
will be better protected from wind on the east side of your house
or walls. For the shadier north side of the house, try white or
blue bellflowers, coral bells, and Jacob’s ladder. Daffodils
and Johnny jump-ups tolerate some shade, like moisture, and grow
successfully in north- and east-facing situations. For the rock
garden, consider stonecrop, creeping veronica, moss sandwort, maiden
pinks, and shrubby cinquefoil.
For further information about plant choices for mountain gardens,
see http://www.coopext.colostate.edu/gilpin/mountainplantrec.shtml
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